Replace /bulb / flapper /disc and check the over flow tube
A:The kits are inexpensive and come with the float and the flapper assembly.The water in the lower toilet is probably being siphoned out of the tank by the negative pressure caused by flushing the upper toilet. This CAN happen if the water level in the tank of the lower toilet is over the top of the ballcock. If this is the case, the tank water is being siphoned into your drinking water! Replace the ballcock with a Fluidmaster right away. If you have a small white fill valve that sits in the bottom of the tank, get rid of it. These are illegal and WILL siphon under these conditions. If the lower toilet runs AFTER the fill cycle of the upper toilet, it may be that the ballcock seals at a lower pressure, and the pressure spike when the upper toilet shuts off causes it to run a bit until the added water closes the valve a little tighter.
You look a little flushed!! ha ha ha ha ha ha :):):):)
Look for a special toilet that mounts directly to the floor and the water drains into a box mounted on the floor behind the toilet, under the tank. This box contains a pump that runs off electricity (plugs into standard outlet), and when the toilet is flushed, the waste goes into the box and is pumped up and out, joining at some later point with existing sewer drain lines. Thi was recently shown on an episode of "Ask The Old House." There may be more info on their website. It's called a "macerating toilet" and many times has inlets to ease the installation of a sink and/or shower as well.
Usually not. If toilet has a mixing valve going to it so warm water fills toilet tank and toilet runs constantly, then enough warm water could leak out through toilet to possibly have an effect on water heater.
DRAIN LINE LEAVING YOUR HOME WHICH IS ALL WATER AND WASTE IS PLUGGED,,,,SIZE OF LINE PLUGGED IS HANDLING ON THING BEING DONE BUT NOT TWO OR MORE,,,,MORE WATER THAT IS BEING FLUSHED, TUB DRAINING OR TOILET FLUSHING AT SAME TIME MAKES WORSE,,,EXCESS WATER JUST BACKS UP AS IT CANNOT GO OUT THE PIPE...THERE ARE SOME DRAIN LINE PRODUCTS THAT CAN BE FLUSHED INTO TOILET TO UNPLUG LINE,,,OTHER THAN THAT WOULD NEED SOMEONE (PLUMBER WITH A ROTATING LINE THAT WILL GO DOWN THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF DRAIN LINE UNTIL IT CLEARS THE BLOCKAGE
possibly a valve was not opened fully or the copper became kinked or solder entered the piping or thew lines were not properly flushed out or the aerator is blocked or the tubing is way undersized
over 1,000 gallons
Assuming you have a regular tank toilet with a ball float and rubber flap and that the water is turned on and the tank is filling, the most common cause of a toilet not flushing is a broken or detached chain that runs from the handle lever to te rubber flap that keeps the water in the tank.
The flapper in the tank is not sealing completely and letting water seep into the bowl. Just replace it.
The water temp in the shower is determined by the mix of hot and cold water that runs thru the showerhead at any given moment. When we wish to raise the water temp- we simply limit the flow of cold water, thereby slightly changing this mix. When we flush the toilet, its water tank immediately (and automatically) start to refill. Refilling obviously takes (cold) water straight from our home plumbing. If our plumbing consists of narrow pipes (or if its partly clotted), the water which is drawn by the toilet refill process runs at the expense of other water consumers - such as the shower. This, in turn, practically limits the amount of cold water thar runs to the showerhead, hence changing its temp.
Both are used, depending upon your meaning. If the drainpipe from my roof runs into a rain barrel, I am saving soft water ( excellent for shampooing hair ). If I put a couple of bricks into the toilet tank behind the "throne", I am reducing my consumption of water used for flushing the toilet, thus I am conserving water.
Shut off the supply line and disconnect it from the tank. Flush the toilet and hold the lever down until all the water runs out. If you are strong enough to pick up the toilet you can stop there, if not, use a sponge or towel and get the rest of the water out of the tank. Use a cup to get as much water out of the bowl as possible. On the base of the toilet on either side there should be two caps. Under these are the bolts holding the toilet down. Some toilets also have screws on either side at the front of the tank. If present, remove them also. If you can pick up the toilet, do so and set it on a towel. This will catch the water and also not scratch the floor. The old wax ring may be around the drain or on the bottom of the toilet. Remove it and the black ring that is probably there. If the drain is at least flush with the floor, a regular thickness ring should be enough. If there is any doubt, use an extra thick one or stack two together. The excess wax will push out. Put the new rings in place on the floor, make sure the bolts are pointing up and set the toilet back in place. Push down on the toilet at the back of the seat with all your weight to to compress the wax ring and form a good seal. Tighten the nuts and install the trim caps.If you can't pick the toilet up, tip it forward enough to get the ring under it and let it gently back down.If any of my employees used a sponge to remove toilet water Id fire them on the spot.In America we have something called a "wet dry Vacuum" a brand new invention that works wonders when removing water from a fixture or just for general cleaning .Using the wet dry will do the following1- Remove remaining water from a tank2- Remove water from the bowl3- Makes for easier dumpng rather then lifting china and the weight of waterAlso not all toilets are low down tanks some are flushometer and STILL a wet dry will work wonders