Ford Windstar LX

I just ran in to the same problem with my 99 windstar, what i did was i used a deep scocket on the striped bolt, after removing all of the outher bolts lightly pryed up on the oppicet end of the upper plentium and it allowed enough pressure to hold the spinning gromet to break loose,.the deep scocket also helped for levrage,hope it works for you as well as it did for me.

Most cars will not run hot if the radiator is a little low. It sounds like you may have a pin hole in your heater core (coil) and the stem could be coming through your vents. This should have some smell to it. Most cars will not run hot if the radiator is a little low. It sounds like you may have a pin hole in your heater core (coil) and the steam could be coming through your vents. This should have some smell to it.

P.o.s.

Brake warning light (Canadian) in US there is supposed to be "BRAKE" overlaid on the international symbol. Looks like a brake drum with shoes.

Your standard security system is not allowing for your car to be started. My trailblazer did it, and i had to reset the computer codes, then have the company that installed the alarm come back and replace a faulty bypass. This may be what you are incurring

2007 ford freestar

Please let me know as well were the abs module is if you ever find it, sssmdg@yahoo.com I also need to know were the flasher module is as well. I have no blinkers or flashers and all the fuses are good

Sounds like the psiton rings are shot causing gas to mix with your oil. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info

Search for the model you want here. http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-manual/

You should have your system serviced. It sounds like your compressor is bad. Mine was doing the same thing and I found out it was a burnt up compressor.

There are two and they are on the exhaust pipe. One in front of the catalytic converter (upstream) and one behind (downstream). Replacement is roughly equivalent to replacing a spark plug. Make sure to get the special socket that Autozone loans out.

Hey Bob==They are on the exhaust pipes.I don't know if it has one or two. GoodluckJoe

I believe they are also called (stabilizer bar),they are behind the front tires,1 on each side of course.Usually you start hearing a knocking sound when hitting bumps.People say to exchange both at the same time but not necessary.Get them fixed asap because they wear down the connection area and you don't want them to break while driving because you could lose steering ability.

I'm weak on Ford's, but as far as I know the sway bar goes across from one wheel to the other in front of the wheels. Damage from impact or worn rubber bushings.

This indicator is telling you that the antifreeze level in your engine compartment overflow container is low. Under the hood, look on the left side (from the front) for the container. On the outside is marked the ideal level. If the level is very low, something is leaking in your coolant system and should be checked. If it's just a little low, go ahead and put a little antifreeze in there. NOTE: Do NOT open this container if the engine is hot. That sounds like you are describing the hazard warning system control switch. If so the switch is normally activated by pushing it down. That causes the turn signal lights on all four corners of the car to flash. That is a hazard warniong to other cars that you would activate when your car is moving much slower than normal trafic or is stopped on the shoulder of the road. Normally the system is deactivated by pulling up on the same switch. Water Level

Owner's manual. I would suspect this is the Traction Control light.

The lenses, like those of many other newer model cars, get cloudy with time. This cloud can be removed by way of simple polishing. If you have access to a right angle drill and a polishing pad, you have the tools you need. Now, before mounting your polishing pad on the rubber, (flexible), backing plate soak it in water then wring it as dry as possible, by hand. Mount the pad then apply a bit of polishing compound to the pad and a smear on the lens. I use old fashioned Dupont polishing compound paste. Carefully polish the entire lens with the pad. Apply more compound as needed. Be careful. The compound is an abrasive and will remove the paint and chrome plating from neighboring parts. You can use masking tape to cover and protect them.

After a couple minutes of polishing, use a clean dry cloth to remove the compound haze. Continue working the compound on the lenses until you are happy with the results. Wipe them with the clean dry cloth and you're done. Think of it like waxing the car. By the way, the process can be done by hand too. It just takes longer. I don't recommend a standard straight angle drill as they are very hard to control on smooth rounded surfaces.

THE HEATER CORE MUST BE REPLACED. IF THE HEATER CORE DOES NOT

WORK THEN YOU'LL ONLY RECEIVE AIR PUSHING THROUGH THE VENTS

THE HEATER CORE HEATS UP WHEN YOU SET TO WARM/HOT AIR ON YOUR DASH BOARD (LIKE LITTLE HOT COILS) THE BLOWER FAN PUSHES THROUGH THE HEATER CORE GIVING HEAT AS IT PASSES THROUGH THE VENTS. THESE HEATER CORES GENERALLY COST $20.OO DOLLARS

EXAMPLE: YOU TURN ON A BOX FAN DURING THE SUMMER TO COOL OFF

AND EVERYTHING IS GOOD/COMFORTABLE. NOW YOU PLACE A RADIATOR

IN FRONT OF THE BOX FAN AND YOU'LL RECIEVE HOT AIR .

GET THE PICTURE. SO THE HEATER CORE AND RADIATOR WORK TOGETHER

AND THE ANTI-FREEZE. THE RADIATOR WARMS UP-THEN THE HEATER CORE

AND THE FAN BLOWER PUSHES THE WARM AIR OUT THROUGH THE VENTS.

HOPE THIS HELPS

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

STAY WARM.

.......................................................................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Diverter is improperly engaging in the dash. Turn all dash switches off. Turn on truck, turn heater switch to max heat, then turn switch to vent. Feel any heat coming from dash? Now turn fan up a notch. You may hear the diver flap engage, and air gets cooler. Got drop dash to fix it

Remove the serpentine belt , runs alt , AC and such try to start if starts, and probly will, check to see which pulley or unit is seized up Alt AC water pump

I think it's 46 foot/pounds.

.35

turn key on but do not start engine.then try to put shift to neutral.if this doesnt work you have a problem

if it does work ,you can then start engine and the lockout switch should reset

It should be on the front of the intake manifold directly above and behind the water pump.

A code P0125 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * Insufficient warm up time * Low engine coolant level * Leaking or stuck open thermostat * Faulty coolant temperature sensor Another Opinion. Some cars have 4 wire 02 sensors, with 4 wire 02 sensors P0125 can mean your wiring is faulty, as in you missed wired it or its grounded. It can also denote more than one 02 sensor malfunctions. The code often denotes a problem specific to the post cat 02 sensor/'s This is a fuel combustion sensory problem, usually not an engine coolant problem. Additional note: I agree. This is not a "coolant" problem. More often than not, it is an oxygen sensor on one of the banks. Best way is to invest in your own OBDII reader that has a "real time" read out of your car's signals. A P0125 will indicate that your engine is running lean as well. Check the output voltage signals that your oxygen sensors are giving out. I believe it should give a range signal of .04 to .08 voltage output depending on the idle or how much gas you put in. If one of the banks has a STEADY voltage output (i.e. no longer fluctuates), replace that particular O2 sensor. Under normal condition, it's suppose fluctuate when the engine is running. If the voltage signal no longer fluctuates, it's due for a replacement. The reason behind this is that the computer readout is starting to mis-calculate based on the wrong signal output of the bad sensor. It will then automatically try to compensate to balance the rich/lean gas ratio. But because the computer's calculation will never be correct due to the wrong voltage signal, you will then get P0125. DO NOT BUY A GENERIC BRAND when replacing an O2 sensor. That's what got me in to this mess. Stick with an OEM sensor. Try SPARKPLUGS.COM for O2 sensor replacement.