Ford Escape Limited

This truck probably has Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brakes and the flashing light indicates there is a problem with the ABS. There is a small black module near master cylinder that is the brain for this system. There are ways to check for diagnostic trouble codes in this system. Once you have any codes set, diagnosis can be fairly simple. If you are not adept at this, take it to a pro.

PROCEDURE: Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) 's can be displayed by jumping terminals "A" and "H" of the Data Link Connector and observing the flashing of the "BRAKE" warning light. This should only be done when the brake lamp is "ON".

The terminals must be jumped for about 20 seconds before the code will begin to flash. Count the number of short flashes starting from the long flash. Include the long flash as a count. Sometimes the first count sequence will be short. However, subsequent flashes will be accurate. If there is more than one failure, only the first recognized code will be retained and flashed.

NOTES: DTC's 6, 9 and 10 will only turn the "BRAKE" lamp on while the fault exists. These are soft codes faults and can only be read with the Tech 1 scan tool.

Do not jump terminals "A" to "H" if the "BRAKE" lamp is not on. Jumping the terminals with the "BRAKE" lamp off will set a false DTC 9. This will turn the "BRAKE" lamp on and disable the antilock system.

1, 11, & 12 ECU Malfunction 2 Open Isolation Valve or Malfunctioning ECU 3 Open Dump Valve or ECU Malfunction 4 Grounded Antilock Valve Reset Switch 5 Eccessive Actuations of the Dump Valve 6 Erratic Speed Signal 7 Shorted Isolation Valve or Faulty ECU 8 Shorted Dump Valve or Faulty ECU 9 Open Circuit to Speed Signal 10 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit 13, 14 and 15 ECU Malfunction

I am still finishing up swapping my alternator from my 1990 Honda CRX Si (driveway job w/ jack stands) and hands down the easiest way I was able to get the old alternator out was exactly as one of the other people said....

- Jack the car up

- Remover the drivers wheel

- Remove the 3 plastic bolts and the plastic piece

- Unplug all the wires/ground/harnesses attached to the alternator so it is ready to be removed

- Remove all the bolts holding the alternator in place

- Then the key REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNT piece. It is only the two bolts that you can access as soon as you get the alternator off the mount.

Once you get the mount bracket off the alternator just comes right out of the wheel well.

I just pulled off my alternator and wiggled it out the top of the engine by removing the cooling hose. :)

I have a 1990 CRX and I have been able to do this on 3 separate occations, including last week. Do not know if this works on the SI model, I have the standard model. Just try it once before you jack your car up and remove anything from the underbelly. Take the alternator off and wiggle it horizontaly to the passangers side of the engine compartment. Take off the engines cooling hose and block the holes (2 minutes at most). Now pull the alternator up the back left side of the engine block. It is that easy for me...wish you all the best.

Pull your driver's side wheel off and unscrew the plastic well pieces. You can just unscrew the 3 plastic bolts and rotate the plastic wheel well piece out of the way. This gives easier access to the alternator. Remove the alternator from the mounting bracket and let rest in the engine compartment while you remove the mounting bracket from the engine block. This will give just enough room to remove the alternator through the wheel well without removing the drive shaft. No need to go out the top and remove the master cylinder. And I know this works, I did it last night.

The easiest way is to remove the master cylinder, yeah you'll have to bleed your brake system but it's better than removing the axle.

Yes, take the front drivers side wheel off,you should see the alternator. Loosen it up so you can undo the belt take it off and unblot the alternator. DONT forget to unplug the wiring attachment form the harness and you need to take a bolt off that keeps the metal off a wire touching the alternator, after this you should be goodto put a new one in , basically follow those steps and you should have no problems puttin the new alternator in. GOOD LUCK!!!

wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No offends. i have never have to remove anything to get the alternator out. i have owned 7 crx in the past, hf, si. u name it. i have a 1.8 dohc non vtec 95 integra engine in the crx, and alternator pulley a 1/4inch away from the firewall. i still able to get it out. right now i driving a 90 Crx Si, with a JDM b16a (1.6 Dohc vtec same engine from a 1999 Honda civic Si) i still able to pull alternator from the bottom. well i guess may be it have the stock black plastic cover on the bottom. all u have to do un bolt it, un plug the green plug. un screw the cable, then take it out from the bottom, i can't remember over the axle from the front or the back(oh yeah! my axle are twice thicker then stock crx axle), i haven't change mine for awhile but u can get it out from the bottom. If u looking at it from the top, yeah look like it won't come out, but it will. good luck buddy.

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On my 1991 Honda CRX HF the **ONLY** way to get the alternator out is:

1.) Unmount alternator.

2.) Remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake power booster.

3.) DO NOT remove the brake lines from the brake master cylinder!! This is NOT required.

4.) With one hand, pull the master cylinder forward slightly and gently move the master cylinder just slightly to one side as you pull (with the other hand) the alternator past the gap you've opened up. You only need to move the master cylinder at most 1 inch to make room to pass the alternator. You don't have to move the master cylinder very much so removing the brake lines is not required.

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Poor design makes this a fragile assembly The plastic slider will break at one of the ends of it's channel and the cable will just pull out. The two fingers that hold the slider onto the rail can also break. The cable can then get horribly tangled or bent inside the spool if the motor is run with the cable disconnected. If your slider is not broken, you can remove the entire regulator and motor by removing the axle pin holding the regulator to the window and then the 3 bolts that hold metal rail to the door.

Look at the slider where it holds the window. You will see a round piece of plastic near the top of the slider and centered horizontally. If you look closely, you can see that this axle has two pieces, an outer cylinder about 3/8" in diameter and a center cylinder pin of about 1/8". This little assembly is like an axle that goes through a hole in the window glass and gives the slider someting to grab.

Gently tap out the center plastic pin. This pin acts like a spreader to fatten the larger plastic cylinder and hold it in the hole in the window glass. I put a cloth in there to catch the pin as I push or pop it towards the outside door side of the window. Once it is removed, the plastic axle easily slides out toward or away from you. Once the axle is gone, the window and the regulator are no longer attached. You support the window to keep it from falling when you remove the 3 bolts holding the metal regulator rail. The entire regulator can now be removed from the car door.

The plastic slider can pop right off the rail on one side where you can bend a tab outward. Be careful not to break the two fingers on the other side that hold the slider on the rail. If nothing is broken, you can then check the cable and make sure it is wound properly on the spool. If not, you may have to take the motor off the rail with a torx driver and wind it back properly. You can hold it with a twist tie or something else you can remove once you get things back together. Put the rivet ends and their spring in the rectangular slot for them. Put the entire slider back on the rail and run the lifter cable over it's pully. The descender cable just uses gravity to slide down and up inside the door as necessary. Just reverse the process to put it all back together. Remember to put the spreader pin in from the back, not the front.

Now here's the rub: The assembly only comes as one unit. They are also very hard to find in junkyards. That means that if one tiny part breaks, it is $130 or more for the part.