Buick Rendezvous

My 02 Rendezvous went into theft mode after someone tried to jimmy the ignition. I installed another steering column from junk yard. I took resistor from my original key and put it in the new key for the New Steering column I just installed. Unplug negative side battery. Left apart 10 minutes. Hooked battery back up. Put key in ignition three times with out turning, then turned to crank position, turned off then back on to "run" position and left it on for several hours. Knowing the battery would go dead I hooked up battery charger to run at same time. Was at least on for four hours. I tried the key and it started.

Here is what didnt work. Bypass module and remote starter. I also tried everything I read on the net, many several times.

Always turn off the power before handling a halogen bulb to avoid the risk of electric shock. Use a cloth or glove to handle the bulb, as the oil from your skin can cause the bulb to heat unevenly and reduce its lifespan. Do not touch the glass part of the bulb directly with your fingers.

To calculate the wattage for a 25 amp fuse, you need to know the voltage of the circuit. The formula to calculate wattage is W = V x A, where W is the wattage, V is the voltage, and A is the amperage (in this case, 25A). So, if the voltage is 120V, the wattage for a 25A fuse would be 3000W.

If there is no heat coming out of the vents, it could be due to low coolant levels, a faulty thermostat, or a clogged heater core. Check the coolant levels and make sure it's topped up, replace the thermostat if necessary, and flush the heater core to remove any blockages. If these steps don't solve the issue, it's recommended to have a mechanic inspect the heating system for further diagnosis.

Possible causes for a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse to keep overheating could include a faulty thermostat, a clogged radiator, a leaking cooling system, a malfunctioning water pump, or a blown head gasket. It is recommended to have the cooling system inspected by a mechanic to determine the exact cause.

You will need to take the car to GM and have it flashed. the radio is vin specific and wont work car to car without reprogramming. if its the original stereo there may be a problem with your BCM

Wiring problem. You also may have a car that shares fuses with other parts, that blow the fuse when you turn the part on. IE: Dodge vans have a problem that when you turn on the rear wiper you blow the fuse that also is connected to the air bag warning light. The air bag light goes off when a new fuse is installed. Check the web for blogs on your type of vehicle and then search for that area of concern.

It could be caused by a leaking or disconnected vacuum hose.

additional info: assuming this whistling noise is coming from the engine and not from the wind whistling through some bodywork I'd recommend you open the hood with the engine running in the driveway and run the engine up and down (with the linkage by the throttle body on top of the engine or by having someone in the car press on the accellerator) and listen for that noise. I believe that a vacuum leak that you could hear in the cab would be serious enough to drastically affect the operation of the engine and you would notice surging, hesitation, dying, poor fuel economy etc.

This further diagnosis may point you in the correct direction to get this resolved.

In message passing, it is the condition in which, both, the sender and receiver are blocked until the message is delivered.

You need to siphon it out. You'll also need several gas cans if the tank is full.

One of your sensors such as an 02 sensor has a naked wire that is grounding out blowing fuses

You have to take the trim panel off of the inside of the tailgate. Not just the removable section across the middle, but the whole thing. There are a series of screws that hold the tail light assembly to the back of the tailgate. You need to undo all of the nuts on the inside to release the tail light assembly, and be sure to unplug the harness as you remove it. The pressure switch is bolted behind the tail light assembly. Once you have the assembly out of the way, just fish the plug for the switch down and out with the switch. Change the switch and put it all back together.

Remove the alternator and the bracket that holds the alternator to the engine. You can then 'reach' in there to get to the back plugs. It's difficult to do but I found this to be the only way I could do it on my old '90 Grand Prix.

Make sure the engine is cold before you change the plugs - DON'T STRIP THE THREADS IN THE HEAD by getting in a hurry. Park it overnight with the hood up in the garage or let it sit outside with the hood unlatched to cool.

Good Luck!

I have a 96 grand am 3.1 liter, and I don't need to remove the alternator to change the rear 3 plugs. What I do is remove the small air duct running from the alternator to where the hood meets the windshield. It should come off pretty easily. It has rubber ends which slide onto the alternator, and the vent by the windshield that it hooks up to. After that, disconnect all of the electrical plugs that meet up aroud the same spot that the air duct was and move them out of the way. In my experience, this has provided me with enough room to get a ratchet in there and remove the plugs. Try to use a socket specifically made for spark plugs, or you will spend a lot of time trying to get the plug in the hole. The spark splug socket has a rubber grip on it to hold on to the plug while you position it. If you don't do this, you will likely end up dropping the plug into the little area surrounding the plug hole, and it takes forever to get it out to try again. Also, when removing the old plugs, try to remember the angle that they went in on because you can't really see back there. It makes it a lot easier when inserting the new plugs if you get in there at the correct angle.

I agree with answer #2. I removed the same rubber attachment from the alternator and repositioned some wires. You really can't see anything down there so it is all done by feel. I got by with the spark plug socket, a knuckle/pivot socket and a few different extensions. The hardest part is finding the hole with the new plug, you can't even feel it with your finger it's so far back. Like he said, remember the angle and just feel around with the new plug.

I took the dogbones off and pulled the motor forward to make more rrom to reach the plugs. Takes time but works. bratt

Log onto Acura.com and they will help you.

The steering wheel may be locked, if you aply pressure by turning the wheel one way or the other it may turn.

Per the manual for my 2002 Rendezvous, the passenger side of the center console down by the floor has a cover for a fuse panel. The REAR Aux power outlet fuse is #14. Under the hood near the battery is the other fuse panel. You have to remove the black cover to get to it. The cover is marked with "Fuse Relay center." # 32 is labeled in the manual as Front Power Outlets(plural), "lights" and ""Onstar. Since they mention more than one, it must mean that the front and the one at the rear of the center console are off the same fuse. # 45 is the main battery fuse for the power outlets but is also for the body computer, level control, power seats and mirrors. If only the fronts are out, it is probably #32 in the panel under the hood. What "lights", I am not sure.

If there is no drain petcock then just remove the lower radiator hose.