Acura RL

"Nifty" is an informal term used to describe something that is stylish, clever, or pleasingly ingenious. It is often used to express admiration or approval for something that stands out as particularly good or impressive.

yes

The Acura RL is a solid built car so it would be hard to access its air filter or any of its technical and mechcanical items for you and me and any small mechanic repair shop for that matter. It's best to take your Acura RL to the Acura Dealership to perform this task.

thats absolute non-sence,

the engine air filter is located in the front left or right hand of the engine compartment it will look like a large plastic box, it has 5 tabs on the sides that need to be pulled away and the top will come free "some wiggling may be necessary" the filter is usually of a paper variety however many after market filters are available. any parts dealer will be able to give you the proper filter based on the make, year, and engine type of the car. by engine type I mean the displacement like a Acura 3.5l RL the "3.5" is the displacement.

lower is rambling, read if you like

thats absolute non-sence, any half witted Nerfherder can do this. dealers rip you off! I will explain. the rise of car maintenance is do to the fact that 90% of people out there don't want to get there hands dirty , the manufacturers make things seem complicated and put danger signs all over because idiots sue them when they stick there hand in the fan while the engine is running.

to make up for this maintenance facilities buy equipment and train the wrench monkeys how to put in to car, push button, and read the code, go to a book that it tells them whats wrong, they pass this built in idiocy to you. the owner. I build and refurbish aircraft. and aircraft maintenance isn't as expensive as car maintenance is! and I hold an actual degree, not only that if I screw up your not dead on the side of the road your just dead.

they tell you it is technical, usually that means with out a computer to tell them, they don't know. some things are usually just hidden or requires special tooling that was made to do the job so you couldn't do it at home, these tools are usually found online or at part stores, and at$89 to120. dollars per hour, at least try it your self . I am not saying rebuild your engine but a filter is basic same with bulbs oil plugs. just read a bit and educate yourself first.

remember nobody is any better than anyone else, they have just been shown before, educate yourself and rid yourself of idiots that want to lighten your wallet.

b1 code on 2008 acura RL

Correct the idle by adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body if all else fails replace the idle control module located upper center of firewall usually. Hope this helps

a SCAN TOOL HAS TO BE USED TO RESET THE LIGHT. FOR EXAMPLE, WITH A SNAP-ON SCAN TOOL THERE IS AN OPTION ON THE SCROLL DOWN LIST THAT SAYS "RESET EMR LAMP"

on the back of the instrument group in the dash is a small hole that you insert a push-pin tool into to reset the latch relay that was activated by the odometer to enable the light. You can reach it with a jewelers screwdriver, but you need to disconnect the battery first (is the stereo off before disconnecting the battery?) and turn the camlocks that hold the backplate up. Better idea is take it to the dealer and have them reset it for you. It is there to remind you to have the timing belt replaced and the O2 sensor checked. if either fails, you will regret this decision to ignore the service call.

fuel injector reset button

The question is too vague to give a specific answer, however; a high idle can only be caused by one basic problem: too much air is getting into the intake manifold. Now, this can only be caused by one of (or any combination of) three things.

1. Throttle. If the throttle cable is too tight (likely) then it will always have the throttle open somewhat. Or, if the throttle is get stuck (not very likely at all) it will be open as well.

2. Vacuum leak. If any gaskets related to the intake manifold (IACV gasket, throttle body gasket, etc.) lose seal, or if any hoses or tubes (brake booster line, fuel rail ventilation, etc.) are disconnected or damaged, then too much air will get into the engine. This is easy to find, as there is usually a loud hissing coming from the source of the problem.

3. IACV malfunction (most likely). The idle air control valve is a solenoid operated plunger that regulates air into the engine when the throttle is closed in order to keep the engine running. If you have a check engine light, pull the code to be sure it's for the IACV. If it is then here are the two possible problems. One thing that is extremely common (especially on high milage cars) is that carbon will build up and cause the valve to stick. In this case it is worth while to clean it with a degreaser and then reinstall it and see if the problem improves. If this doesn't work then it's probably a malfunctioning IACV and you'll likely have to replace it (don't forget a new gasket!). I think this part ranges between $100-200.

I replaced the Idle Air Control valve on my 1990 GMC Truck, 4.3 liter engine in Feb 2010. The cost was $24.95 at Autozone. I am sure that the price varies with the Automobile type.

When I start my truck the motor idles very high and even when it is at normal operating temperature it does not change. The AIC did not help. I will have to see if it is vaccum leak.

Turn the key on but don't start it. and pump the gas pedal 3 times quickly this should turn it off.

Dunno about turning the vehicle off and pumping the gas (Someone's joke I guess). But the instrument cluster has a switch (on the back) on the Speedometer end of the cluster. Switch it up. I was replacing my steering wheel and then decided to try this. I did, and my MAINT REQ light is currently off. Unplug your battery, and remove the steering wheel. The steering wheel was the easiest steering wheel I have EVER removed. There are 4, 10mm nuts on the backside of the steering wheel. That removes the Airbag/center of the steering wheel. With the battery disconnected, unplug the 3 plugs that operate the airbag, remove Airbag/center. Now exposed is a 17mm nut in the center of the steering wheel, remove it. Now simply rock the steering wheel back and forth, side to side while pulling it toward the rear of the vehicle. NO STEERING WHEEL PULLER IS REQUIRED. I've done this twice on two separate vehicles and did not need a steering wheel puller. Now you can remove 3 simple phillip head screws on the dash to expose the cluster. Then you will see 3 more phillip head screws holding the cluster, remove them and then the cluster is free except for what is plugged into it. I unplugged everything to remove the cluster entirely. But now that I know where the switch is I think I could just reach to the backside and flick it up. One REAL BIG KEY HERE. DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION KEY ON TO CHECK THE LIGHT WHITHOUT THE AIRBAG HOOKED UP! Because if you do, the SRS light will come on because it is not reading a valid connection with the Airbag. That's where I am now, trying to figure out how to turn out the SRS light. Anyway, I know that whole operation sounds complicated, but it is not. On a scale of 1-5, i'd rate it a 2 (at the most!). It took me just more than one hour. Having done it twice now, I'd bet I could do it in 40 min or less, no joke. I'm guessin you don't have to remove the steering wheel to get to the instrument cluster, but it was pretty easy. Good luck, I hope this has helped and by all means please post some mechanical information to help someone else so we can all share. Thanks, Brownsoxx

Somewhat following the above info: I removed the two Phillips screws in the front of the speedometer panel and the one between the panel and the windshield(you will need a very short screwdriver for this). The screw is underneath a small rectangular plastic tab. Next, pull the cover forward, you will need to disconnect the wires on the left side of the panel, in my case it was the cruise control switch and three other connectors in the back. Swing the panel over so you can look in the back of it. Next, on the left side of the panel you will find a small, black, slide-type switch. Just reset the switch, put everything back the way it was, and you're done. I didn't have to remove the steering wheel. The actual job takes about 15 minutes. I don't think it can be done without removing the panel. Thanks to the original poster--you saved my butt. I needed to get it smogged and it would not have passed with the "maint" light on. The mechanic I took it to didn't know how to reset the stupid light.

No

disconnect the battery for about 2 min. that resets you car computer. if everything is good the check engine light should come off

You can also hold down both the select and reset buttons found at the right side of speedometer its important to hold both buttons at same time, then turn key to ON position (don't start engine) hold buttons for about ten seconds.Then start engine, this should remove light if light comes back your computer (its throwing a code) letting you know you have problem.You will need to take your car to the Dealership or Mechanic. good luck!

The battery will run down.

I have an 88 as well and my light was on for the longest time but since the 88 model has what they call an EMR module (Emissions Maint. Reminder) located below the headlight on the back of the instrument panel. So there is a little whole on the module that you can just push a screwdrive or something of that sort into the whole to reset the light.