stiffeners plate
Collar stiffeners are used to keep a shirt collar crisp and upright. They provide structure and stability to the collar, preventing it from looking messy or sagging. Collar stiffeners can be made of different materials such as plastic or metal, and are inserted into specially designed pockets on the underside of the collar.
they are used in industries , where there is a huge external load...
Ring stiffeners are structural elements added to cylindrical or ring-shaped objects to increase their structural strength and stability. They are commonly used in engineering applications such as in storage tanks, pressure vessels, and pipes to prevent deformation or buckling under external loads. Ring stiffeners can be made from materials like metal plates, bars, or beams and are strategically placed to distribute stress and support the structure.
John L. Sewall has written: 'An experimental and analytical vibration study of thin cylindrical shells with and without longitudinal stiffeners' -- subject(s): Aluminum alloys, Cylinders, Shells (Engineering), Testing, Vibration
There are many stiffener products on the market, besides buckram. You can even use liquid stiffener in the spray or paint on types. To find the product that will work best for you, ask at your local fabric supply store, or search for fabric stiffeners online.
The add-on car stiffeners are to improve how the car behaves in certain circumstances. * There are frame stiffeners that tie the front and rear sub-frames under the car to prevent the car from flexing during a drag race. Flex under extreme stress can cause the car to launch crooked, not be controllable or the structure of some cars has failed. Hilarious to watch, but slow and dangerous for the racer. * For cars that compete in cornering competitions like road racing the strut towers can move and flex, this messes up the alignment and grip available from the tires. Eventually the strut tower rips right out of the car causing at the least a lot of expensive damage. If it happens in a high speed corner a fatality is not unheard of.
This can not be answered easily. Checkout g2ic.com There are several threads on the process. In summation you will need to remove both axles, shifter linkage, transmission mount, rear engine mount, engine to transmission bolts, bottom stiffeners, a few wiring harness connections and several small brackets. Be sure to replace the throwout bearing and have the flywheel machined. A new clutch cable is a good idea since they tend to wear out.
Book cover art is one of the elements that sells books: eye candy increases the chances that a browser will want to pick up a book, explore it further and perhaps buy it and read it. (This is in addition to the author's name/ brand and the book title.) Publishers create modern book covers using ink and paper with stiffeners, and the art, typography and other visual elements on the cover are generally developed using computer software. This is an iterative process with many samples generated before a final cover is selected. Antiquarian book covers are also engaging to the eye. But it's the leather craftsmanship with engraving, gilding, and other hand-made visual elements that make older books visually appealing. Antiquarian book covers are often unique, single occurrence samples of a bookmaker's abilities. The improvements, therefore, are in reduction of labor and skill required to develop and produce the cover for a book.
# Remove rear molding around inside of rear top well. # Loosen bolts holding rear anchor bar down. Push this bar up until you can remove top from underneath. # Loosen top in front and remove screws holding rubber molding in place. Remove rubber molding and remove glue strip from front bow, being careful not to tear bow covering. # Drill out the rivets from inside the window flaps using a 1/8 (0.125 ) drill. There are three on each side - one in front, two in quarter windows. # Loosen screws holding cable. Pull cables from old top, unglue bow strips from all three bows and remove top from car. # Lay the new top over bows and slide stiffeners under rear body bar pulling the top taut from side to side. Push bar down as far as possible and tighten the bolts, starting from the center and working to the outside. # Slip the top over the front bow and glue the top to the bow using a good fabric cement or any good contact cement such as Wilhold Contact Cement available at most hardware stores. # Lift top halfway up and pull cable through the top by tying the string to the cable. # Fasten top into position and glue remainder bow covering into place. Also glue quarter pads around rear bow and quarter window glue strip. # Slip cable under end of body bar and pull it thru the clip. Pull cable taut and tighten screws. # Replace the rear molding. # Pull inside window flap taut and punch through bracket location in front. Use the bolt and trim washers to hold in position. These are where the rivets were previously. Fasten front and rear of this flap. Replace bracket coverings (cut off bolts if necessary to make brackets lay in the proper position).
Generic rear wiper blade replacementI don't have a 2003 Toyota 4Runner, but I'll bet that the rear wiper blade replacement is similar to my 2004 Pontiac Vibe (same as a Toyota Matrix) and many other SUVs and small station wagons with rear wipers. The technique is basically all the same.- Lift the wiper blade off the glass. It will generally snap into an upright-ish position.- Near the end of the blade farthest from the pivot, press the rubber blade up into the wiper (exaggerating the curve you get on the glass). This gets the tip of the rubber blade to poke down, out of the wiper.- The tip of the rubber blade should start to clear the end stop. Use your fingers to pull the blade out a bit past this stop.- At this point, you can either carefully draw the entire blade out (rubber and metal parts all together) or you can try to pull the two metal parts out one at a time then pull out the rubber (this is easier). Keep the metal parts and don't bend them! Just use your fingers--you shouldn't need tools for this.Reverse the process to install the new rubber blade.- Put the rubber part -almost- in. Leave the tip out over the end stop a bit.- Finesse one metal part in one side and slide it down the groove to the end of the rubber blade (the curve should follow the wiper curve). Make sure it fits in the right "slot" in the rubber blade.- Repeat with the other metal stiffener.- Once the two metal stiffeners are in place, push the end home.Here are some excellent instructions with photos for a Prius:http://john1701a.com/prius/documents/Prius_Maintenance_Wiper-Blades.pdfCan't find the rubber part you need?Take the old rubber blade and match the profile to a high-quality refill blade, remove the metal strips from the refill (if the stiffener is plastic the refill is not "high-quality"!) and trim one end to match the original part length. Don't be afraid to trim it a little long--that is easier to correct than too short. When installing the new blade, put the factory-finished end in first (the part you trimmed will have open slots and it is easy to slide in the metal pieces).OR, simply replace the entire wiper blade assembly which only takes seconds and only costs a little bit more than replacing the rubber refill inserts described above. See related links below for wiper blade sizes and installation videos.
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