Wheelspin - 2009 VG was released on:

USA: 27 November 2009

A long freight train overcomes inertia by slowly applying more force to the wheels of the locomotive, allowing the train to gradually build up speed. The locomotive's engines provide the necessary power to pull the train forward, increasing the traction between the wheels and the tracks to prevent slipping. By gradually increasing the force applied, the train can overcome inertia without causing the wheels to spin excessively.

Yellow triangle is the traction control light, It comes on( flashes) if you get wheelspin,like on an M# in the rain;). It will stay on if you turn DSC off, or if you have a wheel speed sensor problem(asb light would also be on)

It is called 'snow mode'. If you select the button, the auto gearbox selects 2nd gear to save wheelspin on snow/ice from a standing start. It does the same thing as starting off in 2nd gear in a manual gearbox. Hope this clarifies it.

saturn differentials are pretty weak. they accually break all the time. wheel spin is the most common reason for them to give way, speed shifting, or strong takeoffs would also bring the diff to an early graveyard. alot of rebuild shops are now welding the diff pin in place to prevent it from moving around.

It could either be the A/C switch (if it's located near the fan controls), or it could be the button to set the gearbox (automatic) for "winter" conditions (starts off in second gear, and changes gears earlier to prevent wheelspin). on my Scorpio I had a Snowflake Light that came on to warn of icy conditions on the road it activated when the outside temprator dropped below 3 degrees By pressing it it engages third gear on an automatic to allow the car to be controlled better in icy weather.

Yes. Buick Lesabres of this generation are known for their capability in the snow. They have most of their weight up front, right over the drive wheels. They are also geared high, for freeway cruising. This limits the torque avaliable at launch, making it easier to moderate wheelspin. The leSabre's long wheelbase also makes the car less squirrely in the snow, keeping it pointed in the direction you want to go.

A LeSabre with good tires will do better in the snow than a 4X4 with bad tires.

ASR is a TRACTION (not Stability) control system. A Yellow triangle will flash on the dashboard in the speedometre when the system is limiting wheelspin and will stay illuminated when the system is turned OFF or has a malfunction.

Acceleration Slip Regulation... (depending on model year you can completely disable it. Known as ESP, Electronic Stability Control on later models).

With the switch light on (not triangle in dash) it will partially disable it up to 25 mph.

Normal operation is <25 mph brakes automatically apply with wheel spin. Over 25> the EA (electronic accelerator) control will automatically reduce engine output.

The triangle light in dash comes one when system is activated due to tire slippage.

I assume you mean the transfer case shift knob. The selections are 4H an 4L with Diff Lock on the left. Well, 4H and 4L refer to speed, for normal driving, 4H, for off-road conditions or extreme need for lower gearing, use 4L. The diff lock side works the same way, but instead of allowing the 4 wheels to spin independantly, it locks the differentials together. This helps prevent wheelspin if 1 wheel is low traction while the other 3 are on solid ground. This is typically only used for off-road mudding or heavy snow. DO NOT USE diff-lock on the road unless you cannot see the road surface under the snow/ice. In rain, light snow/ice, or any standard inclement weather conditions, always use 4H.

The limited slip differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance).

The LSD, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel. Power to the ground!

The LSD powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance). The LSD, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.

In drag-race style, straight-line acceleration runs, this results in a close to ideal 50/50 power split to both drive wheels, resulting in essentially twice the grip of an ordinary differential.

The LSD biases power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed.

LSD also controls loss of traction when the front wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The LSD provides continuous and infinitely variable drive.

Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs.

It is possible for a formula 1 car to go from 0-60 in 0.9 secs but that amount of power just creates wheelspin, the cars just cant get the traction for that kind of acceleration.

The cars can useally go from 0-60 between 1.9 to 2.5 secs, depending on car setup, track surface, heat ect.

One of the reasons is that FWD's cant have as much power as a RWD.

on FWD cars, the front wheels have to the steering, braking and transfering all the power to the road. When the power output reaches around 200-250BHP, you get tourqe steer, where the car steers its self as all the power makes the wheels turn on way or another. ESP can help.

FWD's are known for UNDERsteering. This is where the front of the car pushes away from the corner while taking one. More power = More Understeer. Also having a heavy engine i.e V6/V8 can make this worse.

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RWD cars have the power at the back, meaning the front wheels only have to steer and brake. What limits a RWD is again power. After around 450/500 BHP, you tend to get wheelspin, but this can be controlled by the drivers foot or TCS/ESP.

RWD's OVERsteer. This is when the rear of the car pushes away from the corner. This can be controlled by turning away from the corner while the back is out. Again letting off the throttle or having ESP/TCS on can help.

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Summary:

RWD can take more power. Usually meaning faster. But a light 200hp FWD can be faster than a heavy 300hp RWD car

yeh it can, look at pumaspeed.co.UK, however the kit they sell excludes the parts required to connect oil and water pumps, engine management etc. so don't think its a full kit, you will have to get these, however it looks like it would be awesome, about 240bhp and similar torque, or you can choose upgrade turbo and be looking at up to 350bhp! However you would require some serious traction control, LSD, etc as in a front wheel drive car you would wheelspin all day with that much. I think best option is smaller turbo for the following reasons; less lag, less stress on engine, better economy, cheaper, and you would still have well enough power to smoke things like vxr's civic type-r's focus rs's, st's etc etc. these could be modified and u should still beat them. Again though, don't get into the bad habit of thinking that's it then. To maintain reliability (which will save you in the long run) you should seriously think about upgrading a whole load of parts; clutch, pistons,rods, I think the crank will hold the power but not 100% so best finding that out, suspension, brakes (important), intercooler (again you don't have to but extra heat = extra stress and less power, intercooler would be wise) engine management that can handle boost, AFM or MAF sensor that can read boost otherwise you'll blow your engine up. Would suggest replacing the airbox as well to be honest, upgrade to something like a pipercross/BMC CDA for a focus RS as its design will have incorporated a turbo, the other non-turbo ones will not.