It could be a multitude of things but is probably the valvetrain tapping. It could be a multitude of things but is probably the valvetrain tapping.

Usually the valvetrain when oil is low.

When an engine is cold, the oil is thicker, and flows slower. When oil doesn't get to valvetrain components quickly, you'll hear knocking, also known as valvetrain clatter. As the engine warms up the knocking should go away.

no it has a timing chain,supposedly to cut down on valvetrain noise.

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5W30 in the winter months / COLD. Anything heavier will burn the valvetrain up in time.

5W30 in the winter and 10W40 In the summer. CAN"T be any heaver are it will burn the valvetrain up.

5W30 weight ONLY. Anything heaver will BURN up the valvetrain.

5w30 weight. If you use any heaver oil it will burn the valvetrain up in time.

Sounds like valvetrain noise. Insufficient oil, pressure or lash a little loose.

Check the dipstick also valvetrain will be louder if it's run dry and oil light undoubtedly on as well

5W30 in the cold months and 10W30 in the hot months. If you use any heavier oil then the valvetrain will not lube and will burn up.

5W30 weight in the COLD months and 10W30 in the hot months. Anything HEAVIER will burn the valvetrain up.

there are a couple of factors to consider.... the rest of your valvetrain must be compatible with your camshaft (valve springs, heads,carb) by changing your cam profile you are changing the geometry of the valvetrain...more lift on a cam is going to compress your springs more, if they can't handle the amount of lift of the cam they coil bind....select a cam that matches your heads the best then make a carb choice for a good combination

Advantages- usually more power due to straighter intake runners(no pushrod ports to obstruct -shape/airflow) and higher rpm limit due to lighter valvetrain, easier to run multiple valves for more airflow

Disadvantages-increased cost$$$, physical size of the engine increases due to valvetrain on top of cylinderheads than being contained in the block when compared to a pushrod motor, need more speciality tools to work on/more training to work on

Check your oil level first, could be low on oil and causing your valvetrain to clatter a bit... (not a good thing at all)

Exhaust vibration or loose mount, bad bearing on 1 of the accessories, loose belt squeal, if it's ticking-valvetrain with low oil.

That usually indicates a lean condition. You could check around the engine for vacuum leaks, fuel delivery issues, or possibly valvetrain problems.

your valvetrain most likely has ro much play in it take it to the shop have them adjust it its like fifty bucks

To provide the correct valve spring pressure. Easier to customize/work with thinner wire. Easier to cool the wire with oil. Easier to control harmonic vibrations in the valvetrain.

YES, NEW cam bearings increase oil pressure and Improve oil lubrication through out the valvetrain. The cam bearings MUST be in GOOD shape if you want the engine to last.

Either a sticky lifter or a loose connecting rod, more than likely though it's in the valvetrain, have heard of that before.

Most likely cause-valvetrain noise, check oil level, pressure, also possible engine knock. If you have a knock sensor, mil should be illuminated

When the cam can be rotated several degrees without the lifter moving this indicates the lifter is on the base. This may not hold true with variable displacement engines or in the case or major valvetrain damage.

Factory said to use 5W30 weight only. Gastroll GTX and Kendell oils are a REAL good brand. Any HEAVER oil weight will burn the VALVETRAIN up.

It is to close the valve(keep it from bouncing/valve float)and keep the lifter on/followingthe cam. This is why race cams with radical lobes need 1000psi springs. The higher the rpm/ heavier the valvetrain the heavier the spring needed.

This is a major repair, requiring the removal of the intake and exhaust manifolds. The valvetrain and head must also be removed. Unless you have the proper tools and expertise you should seek professional help with this repair.

Yamaha Corp. said it will produce slightly more than the V-Star 1300 ....73-hp at 5,500 rpm and 78 pound-feet of torque at 4,000 rpm. Mainly due to the improved rollers on the valvetrain.

I believe the stock valvetrain can handle up to a .480 lift before valve springs and pushrods are needed. You can always call Summitracing Tech service. It is free.

Low oil pressure. CHECK with oil pressure gauge. Worn valvetrain / Lifters are cam lobes worn. stoped up oil pump screen. Cam bearings worn.

These are a few things you need to check.

The valvetrain is the limiting factory for a 4 stroke engine. Valvespring engines limit is around 11,000rpms, F1 cars with pnuematic valvesprings go to 19,000-20,000rpms. Remote control 2 stroke engines go to 36,000-40,000rpms.

This vehicle is equipped with hydraulic valve lifters that do not require adjustment. They are set at zero lash by tightening the rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. If you hear a little valvetrain noise coming from your 3.1L engine, this is normal.

There are no adjustments on a stock Pontiac valvetrain. You simply torque them to 20 ft lbs. Pontiac did not use locking rocker arm nuts. Any attempt to adjust them like you do a Chevy will result in the rocker nuts backing off.

If the distributor isn't spinning in a 454 engine, it could be due to a faulty distributor drive gear, a broken distributor shaft, or a problem with the camshaft that drives the distributor. It is important to diagnose and fix the issue promptly to ensure proper ignition timing and engine performance.

Check for the following: Clogged exhaust low fuel pressure EGR valve failure Weak spark Does it hesitate (or stall) if you accelerate heavily from a complete stop If not any of those it could possibly be a valvetrain problem

All engines in a 2001 Lumina use hydraulic lifters. These lifters are self adjusting. Lifter related valvetrain noise is most commonly caused by failure to replace the lifters after destroying them by excessive driving with water-contaminated oil.

Engine running hotter then 220 degrees can cause valvetrain noise.

Bad fuel can also cause valve noise / PINGING sound.

Ignition timing to high / Advanced to far, can also cause engine noise.

Impossible to say. Bad fuel pump maybe? Suggest you check/have checked the computer for codes. It will usually be able to tell you what's wrong.

You might want to check to see if your timing belt broke. It connects the camshaft to the crankshaft. If it breaks then your valves won't open/close when they're supposed to and the car won't run at all. You can check to see if this is what happened by watching the valvetrain while someone is cranking the engine over. If the valvetrain is not moving while the engine is turning over then the belt's broken.

I'm sorry, but I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. Rocker arms are part of an engine's valvetrain system, and timing marks are usually used to set the engine's timing. It's not clear how the two are related.

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The best thing to do is check that there is plenty of oil and FRESH fuel and that the battery is fully charged, then remove the spark plugs and crank the motor over for at least 30 seconds to get the oil to the bearings and valvetrain components that are dry. Then replace the plugs and start the motor.

Although having a larger displacement than the 2C-T, the 3C-T was more economical and powerful at 69 kW. The displacement is 2.2 L (2184 cc), the cylinder bore is 86.0 mm, the piston stroke is 94.0 mm and the Valvetrain is SOHC.

A single cam (SOHC) has 1 cam per cylinderhead and a twin cam(DOHC) has 2 per cylinder head. A DOHC (dual over head cam) has a higher RPM potential due to lower valvetrain mass, Int/Exh. timing can be changed, but is more expensive to produce.

I'm sure you could, even without much automotive knowledge, valvetrain is easier to work on than you'd think. As long as you're reasonably smart and are getting GOOD information from people, i think you'll be Ok. Just be prepared to do the timing all over again.

If oil is at capacity and within matainence tolerance,id suspect in this order: A: timing chain assembly (loose chain or broken tensioner) B: valvetrain (callapsing lifter,loose or worn rocker arm) C: engine not operating at specified temp ( bad thermastat,cooling sys problem)

I'm assuming your grand am has a 3400 v6 which are known for intake and head gaskets leaking. so its possible that one of those gaskets are leaking so bad that coolant is leaking from intake/heads down onto your valvetrain and then down into your oil pan. more than likely its your intake gaskets leaking.

A clicking sound when driving away could be due to worn CV joints, which are responsible for transferring power from the transmission to the wheels. It's important to have this checked by a mechanic as driving with worn CV joints can lead to more serious issues and potentially pose a safety risk.

You can tell if you have a blown lifter by get someone to count of 10 seconds for you and you need to count how many times the noise happens in the 10 seconds and then multiply by 6. That should give you a number. Take that number and then compare it to your idle RPM's. If it's the same as your idle RPMs, then it's likely bottom end knocking. If it's half as fast as your RPMs - then it's valvetrain, like a lifter or an exhaust leak.You can tell if you have a blown lifter by get someone to count of 10 seconds for you and you need to count how many times the noise happens in the 10 seconds and then multiply by 6. That should give you a number. Take that number and then compare it to your idle RPM's. If it's the same as your idle RPMs, then it's likely bottom end knocking. If it's half as fast as your RPMs - then it's valvetrain, like a lifter or an exhaust leak.

A very thick one is generally required there because the valvetrain is under there and due to moving rockers pushrods etc. oil is going all over the place and level generally above lower lip on head. You can't run without one without losing all your oil which will inevitably leak on your exhaust and probably catch fire.

The timing belt runs from the crankshaft to the cam, which controls the valvetrain. The belt must be replaced at regular intervals,(As outlined in your owner's manual), before it breaks. Some engines are called Interferance Engines. If a belt breaks on one of these engines, serious damage to the valves & or pistons will occur. The cost varies with the vehicle.