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As waves approach shallow water near the shore, their energy becomes compressed, causing the wave height to increase. This is due to the bottom of the wave interacting with the sea floor and slowing down, allowing the top of the wave to continue moving forward, leading to a height increase.
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Why do waves get bigger as they reach the shore?
Waves typically grow larger as they approach the shore due to the phenomenon of wave shoaling. As waves move into shallower water near the shore, the circular motion of the water encounters resistance from the ocean bottom, causing the wave height to increase. This increase in wave height is referred to as wave shoaling.
How do waves change their approach the shore?
As waves approach the shore, they experience shoaling which causes them to slow down and increase in height. This is due to the decrease in water depth and the wave energy becoming compressed. The waves then break as they reach shallower waters, eventually dissipating their energy on the shore.
How do you waves change as they approach a shore?
As waves approach a shore, they typically increase in height and decrease in length. This is due to the interaction with the shallow water near the shore, causing the wave to slow down and compress. The wave may also break as it gets closer to the shore, leading to the formation of surf.
Why do waves change direction when they are near shore?
Waves change direction near shore due to shoaling, which is the process of waves slowing down and increasing in height as they move into shallower water. This change in speed and height causes the waves to bend, aligning more parallel with the shoreline. The energy in the waves is also compressed which results in them breaking as they reach the shore.
What happens to waves as they approach the shore line?
As waves approach the shoreline, their speed decreases due to friction with the seabed. This causes the waves to steepen and increase in height, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches the shore. The energy of the wave is dissipated, resulting in the water rushing up the beach before flowing back into the ocean.
