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Waves come into shore because they are generated by the wind. As the wind blows over the surface of the water, it transfers energy to the water molecules, creating ripples that eventually develop into waves. When these waves reach shallow water near the shore, they slow down and their height increases, causing them to break onto the beach.
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Near shore crest shaped waves are called what?
Near shore crest shaped waves are called "plunging waves." These waves are characterized by a curling crest that breaks forward as the wave approaches the shore.
What do waves change as they approach the shore?
As waves approach the shore, their wavelength decreases, causing the waves to grow in height. This phenomenon is known as wave shoaling. Additionally, wave velocity decreases as they enter shallower water near the shore.
Why don't long-shore currents form in places where waves hit the shore head on?
Long-shore currents are generated when waves approach the coast at an angle, causing water to move parallel to the shore. When waves hit the shore head on, there is less tendency for water to move laterally along the coast, resulting in weaker or non-existent long-shore currents.
How do waves changes as they approach the store?
As waves approach the shore, their height increases due to the decrease in water depth. This causes the waves to slow down and eventually break, transferring their energy to the shore through swash and backwash. The waves also refract, or bend, as they interact with the bathymetry of the seafloor near the shore.
Waves usually collide with a shore at slight what?
Waves usually collide with a shore at a slight angle to prevent erosion and allow the energy to dissipate along the coast, instead of directly impacting the shoreline. This process helps to reduce the impact of the waves on the shore and minimize erosion. The angle at which waves approach the shore is influenced by various factors such as the direction of the prevailing winds and the shape of the coastline.
