Raised face flange end
It's a standard hydraulic flange. SAE = Society of Automotive Engineers.
A flange is a protruding flat rib, a collar, and a rim shape of a round object that is used to strengthen, to attain, or to maintain position on the rail.
FIPS or Flange or solder Or Braze Or Weld / Or MJ
*Any flange having different MOC bears the rating with respect to international standards like ANSI B16.5.*It is a designed pressure that a flange can withstand.*For example a flange is having the following specification:25NBX150#,FORGED CARBON STEEL as per ANSI B16.5is having 150 psi flange rating.It can withstand 150 psig pressure safely.(Noting that in most cases the pressure-temperature charts of a given spec will allow for normal operating pressure to far exceed the class rating at ambient temperature. For example a 150# flange in A105 Carbon Steel will rate for 285PSI at -20 to 100 Degree F. For more information see www.texasflange.com The original intent was to class the parts to safely hold the given pressure at relatively high temperature. Since often times the operating temperatures are much lower the flanges can usually be used well above their given rate. When in doubt take your design criteria to a company that deals in it and ask for the specifics.)*Pipe flanges that are made to standards called out by ASME/ANSI B16.5 or ASME/ANSI B16.47 are typically made from forged materials and have machined surfaces. They are typically in "Pressure Classes" such as 150#, 300#, 600#, 900# 1500#; however, ASME B16.47 still recognizes the 75# or "Class 75" flange for certain low pressure and low temperature applications. These "Pressure Classes" have both pressure and temperature ratings for specific materials. The flange faces are made to standardized dimensions and are typically "flat face" "raised face" "tongue and grove" or "ring joint" styles, although other obscure styles may be permitted. Flange designs are available as "welding neck" "slip-on" "lap joint" "socket weld" "threaded" and also "blind flange". The gasket type and bolt type are generally specified by the standard(s); however, sometimes the standards refer to the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code (B&PVC) for details ( see ASME Code Section VIII Division 1 - Appendix 2 ). These flanges are recognized by ASME Pipe Codes such as ASME B31.1 Power Piping, and ASME B31.3 Process Piping. Materials for flanges are usually under ASME designation: SA-105 , SA-266 or SA-182.*Please visit following link and download the software, you will get both pressure v/s temperature rating of flange:
Yes.
Closet flanges should always have the bottom of the flange resting on top of the finished floor. So to answer this specific question, the tile should be under the flange and the flange should be secured to the subfloor.
Offset closet bolts can usually be found at any plumbing or hardware store. The are also known by another name, "Toilet Flanges/Closet Flanges".
No, it is not recommended to glue the toilet closet flange to the pipe. The flange should be secured to the floor using bolts or screws, and the toilet is then secured to the flange using wax rings or sealing gaskets. Gluing the flange to the pipe can make it difficult to remove or replace the toilet in the future.
If it were mine I would chip out the concrete down to the point where the pipe is solid then I would install a new closet flange.
To solder a closet flange to a lead drain pipe, first clean the surfaces to be soldered with a wire brush. Apply flux to both the flange and the pipe, then use a propane torch to heat the joint. Once the lead and flange are hot enough, apply the solder to create a watertight seal.
Sure. Either way. The wax ring seals the toilet to the closet flange so it doesn't really matter that much. The important part is that the toilet be mounted firmly to the floor so that it doesn't move. That would cause the wax ring to fail then the toilet would leak around the flange.
Yes, you can run it perpendicular as long as the sanitary tee is not more than six feet away from the closet flange.
What is actually broken the flnge ring rusted out and broke or the abs pipe? Abs pipe/flange broken: Use a ram bit to cut it out and install a new one. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvcsaver.html use a compression or expansion flange http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html or just cut the pipe and put in a new one Flange ring rusted/broken: install a toilet flange repair ring or a spanner flange.
The bolt head will tend to turn and slip off the closet flange if the bolt turns while tightening . To prevent this use a nut and washer to lock the bolt to the flange prior to mounting and always use a new wax ring when remountig.
I removed the broken flange by perforating the lead filling between the drain pipe and the flange - i.e., drilling holes every 1/4-1/2 inch or so with a regular drill and then sawing through the filling with a power saber saw. Then pried the flange off with a pry bar. Wasn't as bad as I expected. - Dan
Pull the toilet. Check the closet flange. If it is not loose or broken, replace the wax ring and closet bolts. Reset toilet. Level with wobble wedges. Caulk base of toilet.