Wiki User
∙ 9y agoMore information is needed to answer this. We need the ballast and bulb type. If this ballast is not made to do what you want then it should not be done. It can cause damage to the ballast and cause fire.
Wiki User
∙ 9y agoWiki User
∙ 9y agoYou don't. Each four foot two lamp fixture needs its own ballast. To operate the three fixtures from one power source, the three ballasts are wired in parallel with each other. The three black ballast wires are all connected together with the incoming black wire from the voltage source. The same with the three white ballast wires. They are connected together with the white neutral wire from the voltage source cable. When the voltage is applied to the circuit all three fixtures will light.
Yes and no. It can run without a starter, but it can't start. The starter stores energy and releases it all at once, causing a higher voltage. The gas in the tube has a higher resistance when not lit, so it takes more voltage to start it glowing. Once it is glowing, the resistance is lower, so it can run without a starter.
Connect one black wire to the live wire and the other black wire to the neutral wire. Make sure to follow the wiring diagram provided by the ballast manufacturer for accuracy and safety. It's recommended to consult a professional electrician for assistance if needed.
No, motion sensors are not compatible with dimmable fluorescent lights. The fluctuating voltage from the dimming process can interfere with the motion sensor's functionality. It is recommended to use non-dimmable fluorescent lights with motion sensors for optimal performance.
The neutral wire from the chain switch is connected to the white wire from the ballast. They should be connected together using a wire nut to ensure proper circuit completion and safe operation of the light fixture.
The common wire on a ballast is used to supply power to the entire lighting fixture. It is typically connected to the incoming power source and distributes power to the individual lamp holders. The common wire ensures that the ballast functions properly and all lamps receive the necessary electricity to produce light.
Connect them in parallel. The black wire from the ballast to the black line wire. The white wire from the ballast to the line neutral. Connect the ground wire to the ground screw which is located in the body of the fixture. Grounding of the fixtures is essential.
If you mean the ballast in a fluorescent light fitting where the ballast is wired in series with the tube, the answer is "No". Explanation: If no tube is in place, the light fitting's circuit is "open" so there is nothing to take any current from the "hot" supply wire and return it to the "neutral" wire.
It sounds like you are describing either a slimline or dc recessed base type of fluorescent fixture. There is a wiring diagram on the ballast of both of these types of fixtures. Do your wiring the same as what is shown and you will have no problem.
The terminology T8 suggests to me that the fixture is a fluorescent fixture. These types of tube fixtures need a ballast to make the tubes ignite. If you are trying to operate this type of fixture on 220 volts, you will need a ballast that requires a 240 volts input voltage source.
most likely from all of the electricity flowing through them. Incandescent lights do not buzz. Fluorescent fixtures with a non electronic ballast can develop a buzzing or humming noise. The ballast has a wire coiled around an iron laminated core. As the ballast ages the laminations start to separate and the alternating current going through the ballast makes the iron layers vibrate (hitting each other) causing the hum or buzz sound.
Actually, many components do not have or need a neutral. 3-phase equipment such as motors, heaters and the like do not use a neutral. Some older 240V electric clothes dryers (in the US) did not have a neutral. The 2.5 ton, 240V airconditioner on my roof doesn't use a neutral either. Fluorescent fixtures do however, as you note, need a neutral. The two power wires coming out of the ballast are usually a black and a white wire in the US, the white wire is the neutral. On older fixtures with a separate starter, the white wire (neutral) may not go to the ballast. Instead it goes to the tube socket. It's still white, though. Note that many of the current rapid-start fixtures also need a grounded reflector to reliably start. These fixtures will require a hot, neutral AND ground conductor, properly connected, to work.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
Yes and no. It can run without a starter, but it can't start. The starter stores energy and releases it all at once, causing a higher voltage. The gas in the tube has a higher resistance when not lit, so it takes more voltage to start it glowing. Once it is glowing, the resistance is lower, so it can run without a starter.
Turn off the power, remove the bulbs, and remove the cover to expose the ballast. If you see tar leaking from the ballast it is bad and must be replaced. If you see no tar then proceed. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. The yellow and blue wires are the power wires and the white wire is neutral. With the meter set to ohms check between the yellow wire and white wire at the end where it connects to the light. If you get no reading the ballast is bad. Now check the other side where power is coming in. No reading and the ballast is bad. If you get a reading at both ends it is good. Check for loose wires.
Connect one black wire to the live wire and the other black wire to the neutral wire. Make sure to follow the wiring diagram provided by the ballast manufacturer for accuracy and safety. It's recommended to consult a professional electrician for assistance if needed.
No, motion sensors are not compatible with dimmable fluorescent lights. The fluctuating voltage from the dimming process can interfere with the motion sensor's functionality. It is recommended to use non-dimmable fluorescent lights with motion sensors for optimal performance.