from 13 to 15 V approx
Without knowing the maximum output current it was designed to produce it isn't possible to say exactly how much voltage a charger produces. Also, was it intended to give a slow or a fast charge? In general all that can be said is that the output voltage of a battery charger must always be slightly higher than the nominal voltage of the battery it was designed to charge. This is for the simple reason that it won't be able to put any charge into the battery unless the charger's "on-load" voltage is higher than the battery's voltage. For the same reason, a charger which can deliver a high output current (amps) will need a higher "on-load" output voltage than a charger which can only deliver a low current. Also, when it is switched on but is not connected to a battery, the output voltage of any charger will always be higher than when it is doing its job of charging a battery. That voltage is called the "no-load" voltage. Assuming the battery being charged is a standard low-voltage type, of less than, say, 24 volts DC, it is quite safe, using a standard electrician's voltmeter, to measure the load and no-load voltages of the charger as described above.
There are a couple of ways to look at a battery and give it a "test" to see how good it is. One is to measure the voltage, which is a static test. This in not the most definitive way to check out a battery, but it can give some indication as to how much energy is left in the battery. The "proper" voltage that a battery has will creep down as it is used, and then fall off quite dramatically near the end of its usefulness. For example, if you see a battery that should have 1.5 volts across it and it reads 1.1 volts, most of the energy in the battery has been drawn off. The second way to test a battery is the load test, which is a dynamic (and more "real") test. If we use a battery tester, which is simply a resistive load with a "scale" on it, we can get a better idea of how much energy remains in the battery. The little units basically look at how much the voltage "sags" or "drops" when we apply a load. The scale gives some indication as to the remaining energy reserve based on that test. The more the voltage drops when the battery is loaded and asked to deliver current, the less energy that remains in it.
The voltage between the two electrodes of the battery depends on the redox reactions going on at the electrodes. The overall reactions stay the same, so the electromotive force stays about the same too. The electromotive force is however dependent on the concentration of the reactants the electrolyte, and the voltage at the outside of the battery depends on the internal resistance of the battery as well, which can be much higher when the battery is used.A battery is energy stored in a chemical way. When "converted" into electricity, the chemical looses power, either going from a base of very low PH to neutral or from a base of very high PH to neutral.A fresh battery gives out a "high" voltage and slowly as it is discharges, the electrolyte inside will reach a PH of 7 (neutral) and voltage drops accordingly.The voltage can not drop below zero, as the electrolyte has lost all its power when it reaches a PH of 7.Chemical reactions work only one way, reaching PH Neutral as its ultimate goal, where as in AC one have mechanical movement of wire in a magnetic field.No movement, no electricity. When the wire moves in a magnetic field it produces electricity, but only as long as the magnetic field constantly changes from North to South and back to North again. It is this that creates AC or alternating current, hence the Alternating magnetic poles.
You shouldn't really have much voltage "drop". If you do, it usually means that there is a poor connection somewhere along your service line or inside wiring. Any significant amount of voltage drop can mean that you are at risk of a fire. On the other hand, line voltage into a house may not actually be 240 VAC. Measure the ACTUAL voltage with everything turned off, then see where it goes when you start turning things back on. The difference between the supplied voltage and the load voltage is the voltage "drop".
1,5 v
1.5 volts
1.2 volts
4.5v
Check the voltage level from the alternator. Overvoltage is about the only thing that can "fry" a battery. If the voltage is much above 14.5 V, the regulator INSIDE the alternator has failed. The only choice is to replace the alternator.
This is entirely dependent on the battery. You must consult the battery's documentation to find the right answer.
Voltage is the same but amp hour capacity of the car battery is much higher.
the alternator voltage at the battery should be between 12.4voltsv-13.6 volts
it depends on the battery voltage
Charging a 7.5V battery with a 5V charger is not recommended as it may not provide enough voltage to fully charge the battery. Using a charger with a voltage closer to the battery's voltage is safer and more effective for charging.
It means that the voltage is going up as the alternator spins faster. 4 posibilities; 1 Your battery is dying and the alternator is working harder to charge it when you accelerate. The lights are comming up to full brightness. 2 You have a bad connection at the battery terminals or frame ground and the battery can't hold the voltage down. The lights are receiving too much voltage and are more likely to fail. 3 The voltage regulator on the alternator is failing and overcharging the battery. The lights are receiving too much voltage and are more likely to fail. 4 The battery needs water. The lights are receiving too much voltage and are more likely to fail.
In almost all cases for American 12VDC automotive systems, the allowable range of voltage across the battery is 13.5V to 14.5V, with a typical value of 13.8V to 14.0V. The voltage will vary depending on battery state and how cold it is outside.