tar paper over plywood, then 1" by 3" boards nailed horizontally every 24" up and down. Nail the siding to each board as you cross the wall. Seal all sides of the cedar before you nail it up.
Get plywood and wooden steaks, or whatever material you have. Nail the Steaks in the ground, then nail the plywood to the steaks. Arrange however you like. Old swing sets/playgrounds also make great towers.
A finish nail is usually used, common for interior, stainless steel for exterior.
Yes, as a matter of fact it is wise to use cedar shims to install vinyl windows. Using cedar shims can make sure the window stays level, this way, another person can nail the window perfectly in place.
I would just add a few drops of nail polish remover. It has worked for me! Just add a few drops of nail polish remover into the drying nail polish and give it a few good shakes!
Yes, Liquid Nails can be used to glue plywood to cement. Make sure to clean both surfaces and apply the adhesive evenly. Additionally, consider using mechanical fasteners for added strength and security.
You want to go to a hardware store such as:Orchard, or Home Depot. Then buy some nails and some plywood. Then if there are any gaps in your damaged deck use the plywood to fill the gap and then nail it in. All this should cost no more than 20 dollars.
Premium plywood is much more different than cheap plywood. The materials involved in making cheap plywood are boards sawn and hewn from trees. Whereas, premium plywood is laminated through the multiple thin layers of wood to form ply sheets. The size of AA grade plywood is generally β4 X 8β The cheap plywood is often referred to as solid wood to make it different from all the other manufactured wood products. Solid wood is made from logs that are slaughtered from trees, limited in size, and can be made in whichever size a buyer wants. Premium Plywood is dimensionally more stable than that solid wood. The irregular weather conditions and temperature can cause harm to the cheap plywood, and especially in Sydney where the weather remains hot and humid. The cheaper plywood of Sydney might ruin after a few months. On the other hand, premium plywood is resistant against inappropriate weather conditions and maintains its shine and design for a long time. Plywood is typically cross-banded. The layers are alternatively perpendicular to each other that results in reduced expansion and contraction. The plywood is classified in different categories, and it also varies upon the geographical location. The categories include commercial grade plywood, waterproof BWR grade plywood, BWP grade marine plywood and flexible plywood. There is a possibility that plywood served in Sydney wonβt match the quality of Plywood Tasmania. The difference depends on the grade and material used in making, also on its thickness and manufacturing brand. A composite board is made by gluing layers of hardwood and also softwood veneer. While the premium plywoods are thicker in layer and structure, and more often used as hardwood, which is stronger and heavier than softwood, and favours a lot of purposes that are to be satisfied through the wood. How to identify whether the plywood is of cheap quality or premium quality? Determine the area of plywood, whether it is moisture-resistant or water-resistant and good for humid areas. Check for the ISI mark. It should be ISI 303 which is a normal one, while an ISI 710 is marine, waterproof and a premium one. The plywood should have a wood face and recon face veneer. If you buy heavy plywood it should be denser. The sides of plywood should reveal core layers as straight lines, without gaps and overlapping. Also, it should reveal wood core and nail-holding ability. If the plywood of 18mm bends or breaks then its quality is poor.
According to the 2003 IRC building code: Minimum shank diameter of 0.099 inch, minimum head diameter of 0.240 inch, and nail length must accommodate sheathing and penetrate framing 1.5 inches. This would be a minimum 6d nail for 1/2 inch sheathing and preferably galvanized.
To put the planks up horizontally, I would find all of the wall studs and mark them ( maybe with a chalk line). Then, using a 2 1/2" finish nailer, nail the cedar over the sheet rock directly into the studs. I think this would allow for better expansion and contraction. Glue may fail over the years due to fluctuating humidity levels, plus glue would be very time consuming. If you're applying the planks vertically, I would use 1/2" matarial running horizontally nailed to each stud for the length of the wall. Put up at least three courses (top, middle and bottom), then nail the vertical cedar planks to the 1/2" material.
i am assuming you're talking making an existing closet into a cedar closet. if so there's a couple of ways to go, the easiest and quickest is figure the square footage of the walls to be covered. buy the cedar at lowes or home depot. they should have it in thin tongue and groove stock of varying lengths. its soft and can be cut with about any small hand or circular saw. you can go first class and remove all shelves and base mouldings then replace same over the cedar or simply cut to fit to shelves and base. I would simply cut cedar to butt the door trim so dont remove it. start at top of base or at floor and run cedar horizontally simply stacking it.leave a dimes width between pieces to allow for movement. find studs w/stud finder or by tapping wall with hammer and listening for solid sound and drive small nail to find center of stud then mark vertical lines at center of studs so you can see where to hit a stud when you start nailing your cedar boards on. strike a pencil or chalk line at top of where your first course of cedar is to go and tack your first course lightly. when you see that the 2nd course is seating properly onto the tongue of the bottom course then nail both securely. you can face nail into studs using thin finish nails long enough to penetrate cedar and drywall and go at least 3/4 inch into stud or you can nail at an angle through the tongue to conceal the nails. if you have access to a compressor and nail gun use 2 inch fin brads 18 gauge. this stuff is really easy to work with and easy to fix screwups with. finish corners with 3/4 quarter round or cove mould or rip a half or 3/4 inch straight strip from your cedar [i prefer to do it that way. looks more professional] be careful if hand nailing as its very soft wood and will show hammer marks very clearly. have fun!
If you try putting a nail through a clay tile you will probably find it shatters. You should use a glue of some description, rather than nails. If your not sure of what your doing look up some sites about tiling, you will find heaps.