How do you make a real sword?

Answer 1

Words from a Grunt Labor SpecialistMy way is not the best way, so if you're looking for perfection then find a religion and let them lie to you. My way is my way, and it works for me, so if that doesn't bother you then go on.

My swords have, for the most part, come from living trees. Take note that a straight tree is difficult to procure, so if you're finding only curved trees and want a, say, longsword or broadsword, you may want to consider ordering a plank of wood from a lumberyard.

Cut down your tree, please do this in a growing season, as the winter and fall times provide a perfect climate in which full-length cracks can appear in the wood, making it useless in combat. A good starter wood is maple, though more experienced woodsfolk might want to consider using Oak or, if you can access it, Ironwood for toughness.

With your tree corpse in hand, skin it. Remove the bark using the tip of a knife. Slip it under the bark nearly to the flesh of the wood, then pry up a chunk and peel it back to remove it. This is best done when the Wood is fresh, as the bark will come away in longer strips, preventing you from scarring the wood itself. This protection becomes effectively moot as the next step arises, the thinning process.

A number of different tools can be used to accomplish this goal, knives, saws, files, sanders, sanding blocks, etc (cheese grates?). A plane is essentially the most advanced hand tool for the job, but I've never owned one, and cannot truly speak on it. My tools of choice are the large, heavy knife, followed by a heavy file, followed by a small knife, followed by sandpaper.

First, choose the location of your crossguard. Cut straight into the wood on the blade side to the thickness you desire your blade to be. Repeat this on the opposite side. Begin to carve, holding the handle in your offhand and chopping at a steep angle down the side of the eventual blade. It is important to keep your chops shallow, else they gouge deeply into the wood and diminish your desired blade thickness. Repeat this process on either side.

Stop before you get too deep into the wood, because many removals at this point must be delicate or else cause long runs in the fibers of the wood and, again, cause your blade to become thin. From here I switch to the heavy files, Laying the blade across my lap. In a single-edge blade, I begin to file from the blade to the spine, perpendicular to the length of the stick. I begin with short, gentle strokes, working into a natural rhythm as I progress. I attempt to make a flat plane for one side of the sword, even if I intend to add an edge, as this is the primary surface of the blade, one that is most often seen and receives contact with other blades.

At this point, I decide whether or not I want an edge, and important factors like: Sharp vs Rounded edge (Yes, you can make a sharp wooden weapon) and th angle of the bevel (edge profile). Using much the same process, though delicately, since this action can cause damage to the flat of the blade, begin by griding (or slicing) shallowly into the edge itself. If using a blade, move vertically, if a file, horizontal. I work the wood at a shallow angle, deepening the bevel as I continue until it's close to the angle I desire before moving onto the small knife portion.

Stop again before the blade reaches its optimum thickness, because next comes the smoothing, and this often has the potential to remove a decent bit of material. This comprises perhaps 10-15 percent of the total material removed. I hold the blade, preferable one with an outward curve, at a steep angle, directly against the flat of the blade, and begin to drag it back and forth, applying pressure slowly as it catches and removes the frayed fibers that make the blade feel rough. This process can take a long time and a lot of patience, so feel free to set it down and take a breather, even sleep on it. At this point it can be more productive to let the wood dry before continuing.

Once it feels as though the blade isn't getting any smoother, take a series of sandpapers, I use 120, 150, and 220, though, if you can find it, 330 and even 450 grit can make the wood even smoother. I choose a direction, either vertical (handle-tip) or Horizontal (Spine-edge) and begin to make short strokes, applying pressure as it feels like the sandpaper is contacting roughness. Once it feels as though the texture is not improving, upgrade to your next highest grit. Be aware that a jump in grit that is too high will result in ridges that are very smooth.

Once the final sanding is finished, you can choose to laquer or finish the blade. I don't, because I use them in combat, and this would be a futile gesture as repeated concussive blows would crack and chip the finish.

Back to the handle. If you chose to have a cross guard, cut in again, as you did with the blade, to the thickness you desire as a handle, and repeat on the opposite side. The process for the handle is similar to that of the blade, except there is no definable edge, and it is often favorable to curve, rather than make flat, the planes.

If you chose a crossguard, you are left with a circle of integral wood that runs around the entirety of the sword, theoretically meeting the edge and spine smoothly. Guards come in all shapes and sizes, so look around and see what you can make, customizing it to the circular guard already present, so that when it slide over or around the blade you can simply fill the gaps with strong glue, providing a sturdy guard with little chance of detaching from the blade itself.

There are also many ways to wrap the handle, from electrical tape, to friction tape, so leather cord, to nylon rope, to traditional Japanese Tsukamaki or even, heaven forbid, a natural wooden handle, customize finger grooves and a frictioned palm pad. Keep your mind open, and all sorts of wonderful things might spill out.

Answer you cut one side of the stickYou cut one side of the stick then you and keep on sharping the stick n' that's your answer.

(technically, that's a spear... - Apocalace)

FANCY WOODEN SWORD

OK, take a bit of wood. Rectangular. It should be fairly hard wood. Cut the wood into a very thin triangle, but leave a quarter of it. Now with that little quarter, we will make.....The Handle! Make like a + And you are done!!!!!!!

Answer 2

you can look up "homemade sword" on YouTube. There is a 5 part vid that will let you make a pretty nice blade.

You can also go to :www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/swords_faq_index.htm

This is a pro guide to make swords.

Answer 3

A wooden sword in minecraft is a vertical recipe and is made with one stick on the bottom and a plank in the middle and top slot. A great place to find more recipes is the Minecraft wiki.
P= Wooden Planks

S= Sticks

N= Nothing

NPN

NPN

NSP
First, you need to create a crafting table. Place a log (from a tree) in one of your crafting inventory slots to turn it into 4 plank blocks. Place a plank block in each of your crafting slots to build a crafting table.

Once you have a crafting table, place it on the ground and right-click on it. You will be given a bigger crafting grid that you will need to craft a lot of things.

Place two plank blocks in the crafting grid in a vertical line to make sticks, then put one stick in the bottom row and two plank blocks in the slots above it to craft a wooden sword.

Later you can substitute the planks for cobblestone, iron ingots or diamonds to make more powerful swords.
Go outside

Answer 4

The same way they did it in the olden days...You heat up some wrought iron in a hand or foot powered charcoal blast furnace, till it extremely hot (even hotter than red hot) and then you beat and shape it on an anvil with a hammer.Normally the blade was made with three different bits of steel welded together in this way.

The edges were wrought iron, that could be hardened by quenching, but the core of the blade was usually soft iron...This method of construction was to prevent the blade shattering when it hit something solid with force.

Answer 5

Get some metal, heat it into a blade shape, stick it onto a handle.