Well.. you have to take off your first roof. Then you need to make a "blue print" to make the drawing of your next roof. Then you put all of the roof tiles. make sure your roof is triangular because the roof can cave into your house when it rains and makes a big puddle of water.
Sorry if this did not help at all...
Because the framing for the addition will overlay the existing truss-framed roof, you should have an engineer determine whether the trusses can support the weight of the new roof. If you get the engineer's OK for the project, your top priority is keeping your house weather-tight during construction. First, set the new rafters or trusses on the addition walls up to the point of the eave of the main house, and snap chalklines on the shingles to mark the center of the new valley.
You can strip the shingles out of the area that the new roof will cover, but to be safe, I often leave the old shingles in place and frame over them.
You'll need to install a valley board or nailer over the old roof shingles to create a solid nailing surface for installing jack rafters (see drawing). After nailing down these two boards, dab roofing cement on the nails and along the outside edge. The roofing cement will resist possible leaks overnight.
The easiest way to tie in the new shingles with the old is with a cut valley (see Four Ways to Shingle a Valley). After the addition roof is framed and sheathed, snap a line on the existing roof shingles 2 in. up from the valley center, and cut through the shingles and underlayment. Starting two courses higher than where the new ridge meets the old roof, unseal the shingle tabs (a thin flat bar or a joint-taping knife works well), and pop the nails of the overlying course.
Remove two shingles to each side of the new valleys until you reach the bottom. Save those old shingles, and number them for replacing later. Lift the underlayment out of the way, and then lay a 3-ft.-wide roll of waterproof shingle underlayment in the valley.
Shingle the addition roof, letting the new shingles fold through the valley center and onto the old roof deck by at least 1 ft. Re-lay the shingles you removed from the existing roof. Bed the end of each shingle in a 2-in.-wide ribbon of roofing cement placed 4 in. up from the valley center.
A frame
It all depends on the type of existing roofing that is going to be demolished and the replacment with a deck. If the roof is flat it is cheaper but if the roof has a slope then a whole new flat roof is required to support the deck.
Depending on your location, if the metal roof is going to be more durable and sturdier than your existing roof, you will need a permit. Also if the metal roof is going to heavier than your existing roof, it will require a permit.
you mean an A frame?
Roof coatings can add life to a roof. Extra life may mean that you can wait years longer before replacing the roof and potentially prevent roofing material from winding up in the landfill. A coat of high quality EPDM Liquid Rubber can restore an existing roof to like-new condition. It may delay the need for roof replacement by adding up to 18 to 20 years of guaranteed life protection to your existing roof
Just attach using screws through the new timber frame into plastic plugs in holes in the wall.
By placing a scupper 2"- 4" above the roof surface at the lowest point near the existing roof drain
An A-Frame
No. The most common way to tell if a frame is bent is if the roof is buckled.
Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford - 1998 Expanding Under an Existing Roof was released on: USA: 20 October 2001
most roof replacements are around 15 to 20 years. your location and climate will dictate how the shingles wear. you will need to check with your local building dept. th see what is required by code for your area.
i have no money and no credit i need a new roof