How do you create drywall arch?

Answer 1

Personally I would get out my trammel points: these are devices that make any 3/4 x 3/4 stick of wood into a giant compass and have clamps on them and a place to put a pencil, or just get a straight piece of 3/4" stock and drive a nail in one end and a hole in the other end that would accommodate a #2 pencil, or just the point and secure it with tape at the radius you would like the arch to be, lets say 4'-0"=48". Assuming your arch is going in a non bearing wall, you will need to open the wall up to 52". Why 52 you ask? well you will have to add one jack stud to either side of your opening, that equals 3" and if you use 1/2" drywall that equals 1" on both sides, and that is 4" plus 48" equals 52". You might have to add additional king studs after you open the wall because even though the studs may be centered on 16" that will only give you 48" on center, and if you're demo-ing a door you will have to remove the existing jack, king studs and header.

Find some new header material that will handle your 49" radius, 2x10, 2x12, or plywood laminated to equal 3 1/2" to equal the width of the existing framing, you can rip a 2x4 to make 2 1/2' spacers plus 1" of plywood equals 3 1/2 wall. Why 49", because the 1/2" drywall x 2 equals 1" - equals 48", at the sides anyway. Take your trammel points, or your straight stock with pencil and measure 49" between the two and make your radius mark. Make sure you have enough plywood on top of your arch so that it matches any height openings in the room. The gross length of the plywood will be 51" so that the plywood and 2x44 template will sit on the jack studs. screw the 2 pieces of ply together and cut out with your jig saw, Sabre saw or saws-all. Lay out the spacers on 16" centers and screw them to one piece of plywood. Flip the plywood over and screw it to the spacers making sure you line up all the straight and square edges. When you finish this round header don't install it right away. Turn it upside down and take a 3 1/2" strip of 1/2, or 1/4 (but why spend $14.00 for a 3 1/2" of drywall) and after wetting it on both sides slowly and I mean slowly let it drape itself into the mold you have made. You might have to wet it twice or three times or put a LITTLE weight on it to conform to the mold. Mr. gravity will help you in this endeavor, as opposed to nailing the plywood in place on the wall and trying to get wet drywall to stick over your head. Install the finished header with the drywall in place, come back with your 1/2" drywall on one side, trim to the curve and rock the other side and trim. It's better if your joints are a stud away from the opening rather than at the jack stud, or the immediate king stud

Personally I would get out my trammel points: these are devices that make any 3/4 x 3/4 stick of wood into a giant compass and have clamps on them and a place to put a pencil, or just get a straight piece of 3/4" stock and drive a nail in one end and a hole in the other end that would accommodate a #2 pencil, or just the point and secure it with tape at the radius you would like the arch to be, lets say 4'-0"=48". Assuming your arch is going in a non bearing wall, you will need to open the wall up to 52". Why 52 you ask? well you will have to add one jack stud to either side of your opening, that equals 3" and if you use 1/2" drywall that equals 1" on both sides, and that is 4" plus 48" equals 52". You might have to add additional king studs after you open the wall because even though the studs may be centered on 16" that will only give you 48" on center, and if you're demo-ing a door you will have to remove the existing jack, king studs and header.

Find some new header material that will handle your 49" radius, 2x10, 2x12, or plywood laminated to equal 3 1/2" to equal the width of the existing framing, you can rip a 2x4 to make 2 1/2' spacers plus 1" of plywood equals 3 1/2 wall. Why 49", because the 1/2" drywall x 2 equals 1" - equals 48", at the sides anyway. Take your trammel points, or your straight stock with pencil and measure 49" between the two and make your radius mark. Make sure you have enough plywood on top of your arch so that it matches any height openings in the room. The gross length of the plywood will be 51" so that the plywood and 2x44 template will sit on the jack studs. screw the 2 pieces of ply together and cut out with your jig saw, Sabre saw or saws all. Lay out the spacers on 16" centers and screw them to one piece of plywood. Flip the plywood over and screw it to the spacers making sure you line up all the straight and square edges. When you finish this round header don't install it right away. Turn it upside down and take a 3 1/2" strip of 1/2, or 1/4 (but why spend $14.00 for a 3 1/2" of drywall) and after wetting it on both sides slowly and I mean slowly let it drape itself into the mold you have made. You might have to wet it twice or three times or put a LITTLE weight on it to conform to the mold. Mr. gravity will help you in this endeavor, as opposed to nailing the plywood in place on the wall and trying to get wet drywall to stick over your head. Install the finished header with the drywall in place, come back with your 1/2" drywall on one side, trim to the curve and rock the other side and trim. It's better if your joints are a stud away from the opening rather than at the jack stud, or the immediate king stud

Answer 2

The arch would start with wood framing. The carpenter makes the arch in the framing then you hang sheet rock over it. You will need to put corner bead on the raw edges , I like to use plastic arch bead for arches because it conforms to the shape better than cutting metal bead. Glue the bead on if you use plastic using a spray type contact glue , Spray both the sheetrock and the plastic bead , then place on corner and fill with joint compound.