It's generally easy to tell for coins made in the last 40 years or so, but harder for older ones. The most obvious way to tell a modern proof would be if the coin is in its original mint packaging that labels it as a proof coin.
Another way is if the coin is dated 1968 or later and has an S mint mark. With a few exceptions (some cents and nickels 1968-74, and SBA dollars) the San Francisco Mint has only struck proofs since it reopened.
However, older proof coins were sold in pliofilm packets or other less-substantial holders that often deteriorated or were opened. Assuming the coins were immediately repackaged, they'd have a mirror-like surface and very strong details due to the special dies used to strike proofs.
Also proof coins dated 1964 and earlier were struck only at Philadelphia so any older coin with a mint mark could be eliminated from consideration, as well as any year during which no proof coins were struck. See for ex. a site such as www.coinfacts.com that lists mintage figures for all coin denominations, years, and mint marks.
Finally the earlier "however" has its own however ... circulation coins struck from newly-mounted dies sometimes have a highly-polished surface and strong details because the die hasn't become worn yet. These are called proof-like coins and sometimes are a bit difficult to distinguish from the real thing.
Proof coins from the US and other countries have a mirror-like background and especially strong images. Because they're not intended for circulation most proof coins are sold in special holders to protect them from damage, which gives you yet another way to tell.
Also US proof coins minted since 1968 carry an S mint mark, except for 1999 proof $1 coins which were minted in Philadelphia.
Take it to a jeweler or coin shop. But beware of leaving coins with a dealer, because you have no proof of ownership.
A Proof coin is a particular issue of a coin not a grade of condition.
A proof coin has a special shiny finish on it and it is made to be sold to collectors, and not used as money.
8-15-11>>> The first thing is the coin can't have a mintmark. Proofs were only struck in Philadelphia at this time and were NOT relased for circulation, less than 6,000 were struck. I don't know what makes you think the coin is proof, but the best thing to do is take it to a coin dealer.
The term "proof" has to do with how the coin was produced in the first place, rather than the condition of the coin.
The 1979-S type II is a proof only coin, the mintmark is very clear not a filled blob as the type I proof coin.
You can't unless you pay the $20+ to send your coin to NGC/PCGs even under magnification the ordinary person cannot tell the difference between a pf69 and pf70 coin. Of course, it is easy to tell if your coin is uncirculated or proof, a proof silver eagle will have very shiny, mirror like fields that are easy to see yourself in. An uncirculated silver eagle will be shiny, but won't be mirror like. Also, the raised part of the coin will look frosted on a proof coin but not on an uncirculated coin.
Take it to a jeweler or coin shop. But beware of leaving coins with a dealer, because you have no proof of ownership.
It is really hard to describe what a proof coin looks like in text. But the coin will have mirror-like fields (the part of the coin with no design) and will be exceptionally well struck. All bands on the reverse of the coin should be distinguishable and separate. A 1941 proof dime is worth quite a bit and should never be handled with your hands as the oils will damage the delicate surfaces. Instead, if you think you have a proof coin, take it to a coin dealer and he will tell you if it is indeed a proof dime or merely a business strike coin.
The coins are manufactured to have a very high quality mirror finish on the flat surfaces. There will be no dents, scratches or nicks on the coin. It is extremely unlikely that you will get a Proof coin in your change since, at their time of sale, they are worth much more than the face value. Proof coins are sold in some sort of packaging to protect the finish of the coin. The packaging will have a reference to the coin(s) being "Proof".
First, look for a mintmark. If there is a "D" or "S" on the reverse by the branch the eagle is standing on, there is no possible way you have a proof coin. But then, I'd take it to a coin shop making sure not to touch it and they should be able to tell you. Chances are, you don't have a proof, but if you do have a proof coin it should have mirror like fields (the part of the coin where there is no design). If it does turn out you have an actual proof coin and not just a high grade example, it can be worth a substantial amount of money, $25,000-75,000 or so.
A Proof coin is a particular issue of a coin not a grade of condition.
All Proof coins are sold by the Royal Mint in sealed protective packaging to protect the condition and finish of the coin(s). Proof coins may also come with a certificate of aunthenticity. Apart from that, Proof coins have a very high quality finish and are priced well beyond the face value of the coin. Proof coins are most unlikely to be found in loose change due to their high value.
the 3 coin proof set with 2 silver proof one dollar coins and one 10 dollar proof gold coin is worth about $550.00 retail the 3 coin proof set with 2 silver proof one dollar coins and one 10 dollar proof gold coin is worth about $550.00 retail
A proof coin is not mass produced. It is individually pressed using polished dies.
A proof coin has a special shiny finish on it and it is made to be sold to collectors, and not used as money.
If you found it in a bag of old coins, it is not a Matt Proof coin. Proof coins are not issued for general circulation but for collectors. They have a very high quality finish and a Matt Proof coin will have contrasting dulled raised areas compared to the mirror like surface of the flat areas. Proof coins are a lot more expensive to buy than their face value suggests. Proof coins are issued in some form of packaging to protect the finish and subsequently maintain the value of the coin. Very few of the 1937 Proof coins were minted and are possibly all in museums or the collections of very wealthy coin collectors.