The procedure for timing is relatively well written in the JD 336 baler operators manual. You can order one from the JOHN DEERe folks at 800-522-7448. Don't get suckered in by EBay. I saw one manual go for $60 on Ebay when a brand new one costs $30 from John Deere.
The twine comes out of the twine box and goes down to a porcelan spool on the side of the baling chamber. Run both strings through this spool and then looking from the back of the baler one string on the right side goes up through another porcelan spool (up by the needle) through the eye and roller on the needle then back down to the needle guard and tie it off with a double knot. Run the other string under the needle guard to the other side up through the porcelan spool then through the eye and roller on the needle back down to the guard and tie it off the same way. Then you can trip the star wheel on top of the baling chamber and turn the fly wheel by hand and it will tie itself. *********************************************************** New Revised Below: When threading the twine you will comes out of the top of the twine box and goes down to the first porcelain spool on the side of the baling chamber. Run both strings through this spool and then looking from the back of the baler one string on the right side goes up through another porcelain. (Remember the twine roll furthest from the needles goes to the nearest needle and the twine roll closest goes to the needles goes to the other needle. (see Manual 14T or 24T etc.) (the tension on the twine must be set to the proper spec.) spool (up by the needle) through the eye and roller on the needle then back down to the needle guard and tie it off with a double knot. Run the other string under the needle guard to the other side up through the porcelain spool then through the eye and roller on the needle back down to the guard and tie it off the same way. Then you can trip the gauge measuring wheel on top of the baling chamber, pull up the trip lever by lifting up on it and then turn the fly wheel by hand counterclockwise and it will tie itself if the baler is properly set.
1. Remove shield and main drive case.
2. Place feeder pin in the bottom hole of the feeder teeth.
3. Remove shield and knotter chain.
4. Adjust the feeder drive chain idler just snug against the chain with thumb pressure, and tighten the idler mounting bolt.
5. Turn the flywheel counterclockwise to move the plunger-head on the compression stroke to a point where the face of the plunger-head is in the center of the front feeder slot in the bale case top.
6. Locate the left-hand edge of the feeder tooth 17-5/8 inches, measured horizontally, from the extreme left-hand top of the feeder support. A block may be used as a gauge to hold the teeth in this position. It should be placed between the teeth and the feeder support bracket, and should be held in this position until the timing is completed.
7. Connect the main drive chain. Turn the flywheel clockwise as necessary to install chain with the drive side tight. Tighten the idler against the chain with thumb pressure.
8. With the needles in their home position, trip the trip dog roller with the bale measuring arm and rotate the clutch ring counter clockwise (facing the L.H. side of the baler) until the lug on the inside of the clutch ring contacts the trip dog roller.
9. Install the knotter drive chain. If necessary, back the clutch ring away from the roller to install the chain.
10. check the needle timing by continuing the plunger-head on it's compression
stroke. When the tip of the highest needle has risen flush with the top edge of the bale case bottom groove flanges, there should be from 1 to 2-1/2 inches between the face of the plunger-head and the center of the rounded portion at tip of the needle.
11. If the plunger-head and needles are not yet timed properly, make final adjustment again by removing the main drive chain and moving plunger-head away from needles if they are less than 1 inch apart or toward needles if they are more than 2-1/2 inches apart.
Note: This will change the 17-5/8-inch feeder-tooth dimension when the plungerhead is centered in slot. The feeder-head will still be in time if this dimension is between 16-3/4 and 18-14 inches.
12. After the correct needle timing has been obtained, move move the plunger-head through one complete cycle to make certain that the feeder teeth and the plunger-head clear each other and that the needles enter the bale case properly when checked with feeder pivot pin in both top and bottom holes.
13. If proper timing cannot be obtained, it may be necessary to vary the length of the needle lift link. lengthening of the link will cause the needles to rise at a later time, and come closer to the face of the plunger-head when the tip of the highest needle is flush with the top of the bottom bale case flange. If needle lift link is changed, recheck timing to make sure all adjustments are within the correct tolerances.
What year is my John Deere 14T hay baler with a serial number of 38497?Read more: What_year_is_my_John_Deere_14T_hay_baler_with_a_serial_number_of_28517
From my research the 14t was manufactured from 1954-1961.
No, they will not fit. Different mounting pads, different length needle arm.
John Deere started manufacturing the 14 T in the mid 1950's
I have an old John Deere 14t, I have used it behind a Farmall H. The H has about 30 hp, it was just barely enough. A tractor around 40 hp or higher is a better choice.I have an old John Deere 14t, I have used it behind a Farmall H. The H has about 30 hp, it was just barely enough. A tractor around 40 hp or higher is a better choice.
Not 100% sure. 14T started in 1953. The replacement baler the 24T started in 1965, at least that is the date on the parts book. I would say then 1964.
You are probably referring to the HP Pavilion 14T Touch, which is a touchscreen laptop.
-14
14t front, 38t rear
∫14dt = 14t + c(where c is a constant)
yeah its ok
14t on the front, 50t on the rear