I believe it is called Blossom End Rot (BER) and is caused by a lack of Calcium. It can be due to either shallow or insufficient watering, or a deficiency of Calcium in the soil. The recommendation seems to be using a layer of mulch to prevent premature drying of your soil after watering, or, if you test your soil and it is Calcium deficient you can add either limestone (if the soil's acidity level or pH is below 6.0) or gypsum.
Calcium deficieny. do not use liquid fertilizer. go to local nursery and they will be able to get you a bag or spray that will help the problem about $5-$8. It will not get rid of tomatos already like this, but will save the others from this. As stated above its a calcium defienciency. If you add lime to the soil it will stop blossom end rot. If you don't want to use lime, you can add two Tums with calcium next to the seedling when you first plant the tomato. Egg shells are reported to add calcium to the soil, but the composting time isn't worth the wait as it takes years for the calcium to leech into the soil.
I suspect that there could be several reasons, but the one I've heard most often, including from our local Agriculteral Extention agent, is too much watering during high heat conditions.
In particular, the problem occurs with uneven watering. If you don't water them much for a while, and then give them a lot, they can split. Sometimes this can occur if unseasonal rain falls during the normally dry growing season.
Blossom end rot will cause this symptom. It is due to a variety of factors, all of which affect the plant's ability to absorb calcium. These conditions include:
* too much or too little water (increase organic content of soil apart from monitoring the soil moisture level)
* poor drainage (add gypsum)
* over-fertilizing
* saline soils (avoid over-fertilizing and water thoroughly to leach salt)
* acidic soils (add lime)
Also consider applying one of the calcium sprays.
This is tomato blossom end rot due to calcium deficiency in the developing fruit. Particularly in pots, it is almost always a result of uneven watering and a resulting deficiency in calcium uptake, not inadequate calcium in the soil or potting medium. The fruit is still good to eat (just cut off the bottom) and correcting the watering problem will result in future fruit being fine.
Go here for more information: http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=1076
The tomato would rot faster in warm water because, when you put a tomato in cold temperature ex: refrigerator the tomato does not rot and it stays good for a long period of time, now if you put the tomato in warm temperature or room temperature for instance, the tomato has more chance of rotting than in cold temperature so the tomato rots faster in warm water.
yes!
ANSWER:One of two things: On a tomato, a calcium deficiency. On squash, high humidity which doesn't let the bloom dry and fall off.
Lack of light would probably prevent a tomato from ripening, and it is more likely to simply rot.
Tomatoes rotting on the bottom, known as blossom end rot, is often caused by a calcium deficiency in the plant. This may be due to irregular watering, which affects the plant's ability to take up calcium from the soil. To prevent this, maintain consistent watering practices and check soil pH levels to ensure proper calcium uptake.
Bacteria, mold, and yeasts can cause food to rot.
Light???
oxidisation
About 2-3 weeks based on my experience.
Bacteria and fungi.
Tomato Yellow LeafClick on the links below for tomato-related problems. ~Lack of iron in the dirt. Esp if using container planting. can be bought and applied at garden store.Tomatoes need EPSOM SALTS to the soil when they start to bud out. Get a bag and read the instructions. Magnesium is so important to the growth and FLAVOR. And also keeps bottom rot away.Over watering or underwatering.Also, calcium and blood meal use is assumed when planting.
Decay means to rot or to become decomposed. For example: The tomato started to decay. Hope this helps!!