Under the car. Look at your brake pedal. There's a silver rod on a clevis coming out the back side of the brake pedal. It goes into a rubber boot that's sticking through the firewall. On the other side of the firewall is the master cylinder. The bolts you've got to remove to get the master cylinder out are above and to the right, and below and to the left, of the rubber boot. Oh yeah...because of where it is, there's a special way to bench bleed (prime) a VW master cylinder. The way to bench bleed most master cylinders is to clamp them into a vise, put fluid in the reservoir that's attached to them and pump the rod until fluid comes out the brake line ports. On a VW that doesn't work because you are almost guaranteed to dump the bench bleed out while you're attempting to get it under the car. It's better to install the master cylinder, hook up the reservoir hoses and the brake pedal, then fill the reservoir and put someone in the car to pump the brakes while you keep the reservoir topped up. Put a metal--very important--container under the master cylinder. When you hear fluid hitting the metal pan, you're done.
Pour it in the master cylinder located under the hood, driver's side.
The brake light switch on that bug would be found on the brake master cylinder. Remove the fuel tank to make access easier.
You will have to re-bleed the air out of the system at all four wheels. Make sure the master cylinder is topped up after each bleed cycle.
brake switch is located on master cylinder behind front off side wheel. Check current into switch (with ignition on) and current out when brake pedal depressed. for more vw aircooled answers email strevslondonataoldot com
Unscrew the bleeder bolt on each brake, one at a time, and see if that allows the wheel to spin freely. If it won't, the brakes are rusted/ frozen and you'll need to replace them. If the wheels can then spin it sounds like a master cylinder issue or perhaps blocked lines. Replace the lines first because it's cheaper and should be done from time to time, then the master cylinder.
What is the cylinder sequence on a 1970 bug with a1600 dual port moter?
There are two possible reasons: the brake system needs bled the switches themselves are bad Volkswagen did something NO other car company would even dream of when they built the Bug--they used a pressure sensor screwed into a port on the master cylinder to turn the brake lights on. I absolutely hate this setup--it is almost guaranteed to make the brake lights not work, since the whole brake system has to be perfect if you want the brake lights to turn on. You will notice that VW doesn't use this scheme on its watercooled cars and with good reason. I like to buy a brake light switch off an American car, build a bracket to position the switch in front of the pedal arm, and use that to turn the brake lights on. It works much better than the VW death-trap. 2. Oh you of limited experience.... most if not all pre 1964 cars had brake fluid operated brake switches on the master cylinder or on a brake line. Depending whether you have a early,early VW with a single system brake or the later, after 1967, dual brake system, as to whether it's a death trap or not.... But do as in prior post , check for low fluid, requiring a system bleed. Bad brake light switch. Also check for corrosion on the brake light connectors on the master cylinder, this is a fairly common occurance. clean off corrosion and reinstall wire on switch.
Super Bug - video game - was created in 1977.
Super Bug - video game - happened in 1977.
yep
remove the brake cap and start the car... let it run for about 10-15 seconds the have soome body mash the brakes and you will see little bubbles come out . keep repeating intill the brake becomes firm.
In that case you have to pull the wheel and then the brake drum to access the mechanism directly.