Ordinarily, you do not adjust the pushrod length - it's factory-set. The first thing most folks do when they discover it's adjustable is to make it too long (which makes the brakes SEEM better) ...problem is that doesn't allow the compensating ports in the master cylinder to be uncovered when the pedal's up, so as the fluid heats under use it can't escape to the reservoir and the brakes start to lock up after a few minutes' driving.
First, ensure that the pedal stop on the floorboard is set to allow the pedal to come back ~200mm (about 8") from the firewall. If the pedal's set too low there won't be sufficient travel to allow a single brake circuit to function in the event of failure of the other. Check for freeplay at the pedal - it should be ~6mm (about ¼") which equates to about 1mm freeplay at the pushrod. A little less is acceptable, provided there is SOME perceptible freepla at the pushrod.
They are located on the brake master cylinder. Vw joe. Have a great day
Passenger side, behind the manifold.
That is a pressure controlled brake light switch, when you step on the brake pedal and develop pressure in the brake fluid the brake lights are switched on.
The brake light switches.
To adjust the tow in and tow out you must adjust the tie rods. You must first break loose the nut then twist the tie rod until the right adjustment has been made.
No.
Right side, front of motor. Front of car 3-1 4-2 Rear of car
Cylinder 1 is at the flywheel end of the engine, on the same side as the starter. In countries with left-hand drive, that's the passenger side. Cylinder 2 is on the same side as cylinder 1, at the pulley end. Cylinder 3 is on the other side of the engine at the flywheel end. Cylinder 4 is on the same side as cylinder 3, at the pulley end.
take the pulley nut off the alternator....the pulley is split.....shims between the two pulley halves adjust the belt tension
165R15.
1500 rpm.
1600cc