There are many cause of this, but the primary reasons are in the pressure tank. The tank MUST have residual air pressure of around 27 psi to drive the water system. To analyse further I need to know what kind of tank you have and what air pressure is in it when the water ceases to flow. I need to know what pressure your pump starts and if the tank feels heavy (full of water) when the pressure is low.
Excessive pressure may damage pipe joints and internal parts of cheap faucets. The old PolyB pipe is very susceptible to breaking under excess pressure. In most cases, I see no reason for house pressure to be in excess of 50 psi.
The residential house Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) usually has setting capabilities of between 25-75 PSI. Normally, 50 PSI is suitable.
32 psi
you get a pressure gauge that screw onto laundry or garden faucet
The water pressure in my house is about 140PSI. Which is definitely dangerous. It happens more often than you would think. What happens is a city will use water supply lines which are too small for the water requirements. Therefore, they have to increase the pressure. You wouldn't want a pressure relief valve, because then if the pressure was too high, it would just spray water everywhere to release the pressure. You would want a pressure regulator installed, which is what I am working on for my house right now. Just to let you know though, you may have to get a thermal expansion tank for your water heater if you don't have one. See, the new pressure regulators have a check valve in them, which prevents water from traveling back into the city pipes once it has gotten into your house. When your water heater heats the water, the air bubbles in it expand, which increases the water pressure, and will probably cause your pressure relief valve on your water heater to blow. You can get a cheap water pressure meter at any improvement store to check it out. 50-60 PSI is ok. I would say you could take it up to 70 or 80 PSI safely.
Residential static water pressure can be measured using a water pressure gauge attached to an outdoor spigot. Simply screw the gauge onto the spigot, turn off all water sources inside the house, and then open the spigot to get a reading of the static water pressure.
The common acceptable water pressure for a residential home is typically between 40-80 psi (pounds per square inch). Pressure outside of this range can cause issues such as leaks or damage to plumbing fixtures. It is important to check your water pressure periodically and adjust it if needed.
The range of normal residential water pressure is from 30 to 80 psi. Ideally, the pressure should be set between 45 and 60 pounds in most residential plumbing systems.If the pressure rises too high particularly above 80 psi, plumbing fixtures and appliances (primarily water heaters) could be damaged or leak excessively.
Excessive pressure may damage pipe joints and internal parts of cheap faucets. The old PolyB pipe is very susceptible to breaking under excess pressure. In most cases, I see no reason for house pressure to be in excess of 50 psi.
The residential house Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) usually has setting capabilities of between 25-75 PSI. Normally, 50 PSI is suitable.
32 psi
No.
If it's a bladder tank, it should always have "Air" pressure but if the pump isn't working, you still wouldn't have water in the house.
Possibly a pressure reducing valve installed after piping for first faucet, which would cause situation describing.
you get a pressure gauge that screw onto laundry or garden faucet
The water pressure in my house is about 140PSI. Which is definitely dangerous. It happens more often than you would think. What happens is a city will use water supply lines which are too small for the water requirements. Therefore, they have to increase the pressure. You wouldn't want a pressure relief valve, because then if the pressure was too high, it would just spray water everywhere to release the pressure. You would want a pressure regulator installed, which is what I am working on for my house right now. Just to let you know though, you may have to get a thermal expansion tank for your water heater if you don't have one. See, the new pressure regulators have a check valve in them, which prevents water from traveling back into the city pipes once it has gotten into your house. When your water heater heats the water, the air bubbles in it expand, which increases the water pressure, and will probably cause your pressure relief valve on your water heater to blow. You can get a cheap water pressure meter at any improvement store to check it out. 50-60 PSI is ok. I would say you could take it up to 70 or 80 PSI safely.
"Best" is a matter of opinion. The "best" water pressure is one that allows you to use the lowest possible pressure to allow proper function of all your fixtures. This reduces the stress on all of the pipes, fittings, fixtures, and appliances that require water. Typical residential water pressure runs between 30psi and 80psi.