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When mounting a meter base to a pole what kind of bracket do you use?
I generally use four pieces of "unistrut" to make a mounting bracket. I attach the unistrut to the pole using either lag screws or strap. It needs to be secure.
What is Kindorf?
It's prety much the same as unistrut to my knowledge. It's a perforated metal beam used for mounting electrical components usually.
Where can someone find galvanized unistrut?
In appliance stores, hardware stores, or workshops. Home Depot or car repair shops may be places to start. Machine shops may offer shipping or home repair services as well.
Can electrical panel be hung by conduit?
A bad idea. That would be against the electrical code and the manufactures specifications.Another answer:Agreed. Only use approved structural material to hang an electrical panel. If you need to hang it away from an existing wall, use Unistrut.
Can you use uni strut as anchorage point for a fall protection connector?
An anchor point should be able to support a 5000 lb load, or twice the max anticipated load in a fall. For the average worker wearing a harness and shock absorbing lanyard, that is around 950 lbs. Most unistrut framing members are not designed to support that load. Bad idea.
How do you remove a crankshaft pulley from a 1993 Toyota Corolla?
This reply will begin by letting you know there is a lot more info about Timing belt issues included in this response. If you are removing the crank pulley, use this extra info as well. The way to remove the pulley is with a special tool called a "crankshaft pulley puller" available for rent or purchase from auto parts stores ($20-30). There are two bolts you thread into the two holes (10 mm?) in the spokes of the pulley, then the large center bolt is tightened against the crankshaft (protect the crank threads if necessary) until the pulley slides off. You can also use a three-jaw gear puller, which is commonly available, but requires a bit more skill and caution to avoid damage to the pulley. Clearance may be an issue with a large puller. That being said, the most challenging thing is getting the bolt loose that holds on the pulley. It is tightened to a torque of 87 footpounds or so and isn't going to just loosen up easily. This is accomplished with an air or electric impact wrench and a 17 mm impact socket. If you do not have an impact wrench, you can use a large strap wrench (not a pipe wrench or other tool that could damage the pulley) to hold the pulley (all other belts need to be off for this) while countering the breaker bar and 17 mm socket (highly suggest 1/2" drive). I just did one of these today using a large U-bolt over the pulley (well padded to protect grooves) tightened to a two foot piece of slotted Unistrut. The U-bolt was for 5" pipe, therefore it had an open span of 5 and 5/8". The pulley is just under 5 and 1/2", so this was perfect. You could also use a two-hole strap for 5" conduit or Iron pipe bolted with lag bots to a 2x4. Either way yields a tool that is shaped like the letter "P" and you just let the tail of the "P" rest against some sturdy engine or body component while you use two hands on the breaker bar. After removing the pulley, CAREFULLY INSPECT THE TIMING BELT SPROCKET BEHIND THE BELT GUIDE. It can be failing by slipping on the crank and causing timing problems. If there is ANY play in it, REPLACE IT! (You may have to order this from a Toyota dealer. When I needed one, it was not in common stock). Install new timing belt tensioner and belt on sprocket with Crankshaft and camshaft(s) properly aligned. Tension belt properly, double check alignment. Install belt guide on crankshaft, then pulley. When reinstalling the pulley, be careful not to damage it with a hammer. use a block of wood across the face to protect the pulley as you coax it into place by tapping. Torque bolt to spec. Hope this helps!
