you would wire a float switch into the control circuit i.e, the contactor coil (which is relatively low current but rated at least for the control voltage,, in most cases 120VAC). also in the same circuit would be the overload contacts. if the overload trips and/or the float switch opens then voltage is removed from the contactor coil
the uglys book is a good reference ,call the manufacture or go on line to find a manual
A contactor is a type of switch. However this switch uses electricity to power an electromagnetic coil to switch on or off power. Hence a contactor needs 2 wires - A live/hot wire and a neutral wire. Generally these are connected across the A1 and A2 terminals of the contactor.
A contactor is used like a switch. It is used to open and close the circuit it is in series with by electrically energizing and de-energizing the holding coil of the contactor. By having this adaptability the circuit can be remotely operated from a distance and the operator does not have to be in close proximity to the circuit. Contactors are used to remotely operate banks of lighting and of course the contactor is used for motor control. On contactors that control motors an additional overload block is added to the bottom side of the contactor to protect the motors if they get into an over load condition. The N.C. contacts in the overload block will open and the holding coil of the contactor will de-energize and drop the motor off line.
With a contactor we can control the power connection to the motor (power on/off). A typical AC contactor comes with 4 terminals aside (L1,L2,L3,A). 'A' has A1,A2 terminals which are of the magnetizing coil. By magnetizing & demagnetizing A1-A2 coil, power line connections to motor can either be made or broken. This is a simple DOL (Direct On Line) application. Further, reverse/forward circuits and star-delta circuits can be constructed based on the requirement. A contactor's role in whatever application is 'making or breaking' the contact. The coil supply can either be AC or DC.
On the load side of the contactor. T1,T2,T3.
Motor started will have overloads the contactor connect es line voltage.
you would wire a float switch into the control circuit i.e, the contactor coil (which is relatively low current but rated at least for the control voltage,, in most cases 120VAC). also in the same circuit would be the overload contacts. if the overload trips and/or the float switch opens then voltage is removed from the contactor coil
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the uglys book is a good reference ,call the manufacture or go on line to find a manual
Take a wire from one of the line terminals L1 to one side of the contactor coil. Take another wire from the second line terminal L2 and put it to one side of a N.C. contact on the overload block. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the O/L block take a wire to the N.C. terminal on the pressure switch. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the pressure switch terminal connect the wire to the other side of the coil. This configuration will be using the same coil voltage on the contactor as that of the supply voltage.
A contactor is a type of switch. However this switch uses electricity to power an electromagnetic coil to switch on or off power. Hence a contactor needs 2 wires - A live/hot wire and a neutral wire. Generally these are connected across the A1 and A2 terminals of the contactor.
A contactor is used like a switch. It is used to open and close the circuit it is in series with by electrically energizing and de-energizing the holding coil of the contactor. By having this adaptability the circuit can be remotely operated from a distance and the operator does not have to be in close proximity to the circuit. Contactors are used to remotely operate banks of lighting and of course the contactor is used for motor control. On contactors that control motors an additional overload block is added to the bottom side of the contactor to protect the motors if they get into an over load condition. The N.C. contacts in the overload block will open and the holding coil of the contactor will de-energize and drop the motor off line.
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the buzzing is probably your contactor. there are two 18 gauge wires going to your contactor coil the two wires will follow your line set out of your house and into AC to the contactor coil. usually red and white. or blue and yellow. make sure you have 24 volts with your volt meter (T-stat must be calling for cool). make sure you have 240 volts going into line side of contactor(L1 L2). there should be a run capacitor or two. usually a silver duel capacitor it will be round. is it mushroomed at the top? do you have voltage on both sides of contactor and 24 volts to contactor coil when thermostat is calling for cool?. and no voltage at capacitor or it looks mushroomed, you have a bad capacitor. the best way to test one is with a mircrofared tester. less then10 bucks to replace it will have a number ie. 35/5 uf if it is a duel. make sure you get the same one. if you don't have 24 volts to contactor coil or if contactor isn't pulled in. your problem is in the t-stat or funace. if you don't have 240 volts going into line side of contactor you have a tripped breaker or blowen fuse somewhere, or high pressure cutout needs to be reset due to dirty condenser.(usually only on Rheems) if you have 240 at line side L1 L2 and 24 to the contact coil but no 240 on T1 T2 of contactor you have a bad contactor which i would replace anyways since it sounds like it's buzzing. they are about 10 bucks too. let me know if this helped I'm pretty sure it's your capacitor. the capacitor if it's a duel will have three different terminal circles. C, fan, and Herm. C is for common it goes to the common wire on the contactor either a red or yellow wire. fan uses the wire coming from the fan and herm uses the wire coming from the compressor.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.This is for a single phase air compressor whose magnetic contactor's coil voltage is the same as the supply line voltage. Take a wire from one of the line terminals L1 to one side of the contactor coil. Take another wire from the second line terminal L2 and put it to one side of a N.C. contact on the magnetic contactor's overload block. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the O/L block take a wire to the N.C. terminal on the pressure switch. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the pressure switch terminal connect the wire to the other side of the magnetic contactor's coil.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Take a wire from one of the line terminals L1 to one side of the contactor coil. Take another wire from the second line terminal L2 and put it to one side of a N.C. contact on the overload block. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the O/L block take a wire to the N.C. terminal on the pressure switch. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the pressure switch terminal connect the wire to the other side of the coil. This configuration will be using the same coil voltage on the contactor as that of the supply voltage.