I don't quite get what you mean. -A vent pipe in a plumbing system is usually 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe and may extend through the roof, or may end in a AAV under a countertop.
Nothing as long as the pressure pipe is not used for potable water as you cannot make a direct connection and depending on the GPM flow what size the larger sewer pipe is as 1 GPM (pumping) is considered 1 fixture unit when sizing the drainage system ALSO make sure the pumps system enters at a right angle 45 deg so your not eroding the side of the larger pipe out
There are three kinds of steam 1) saturated steam, 2)super saturated steam 3) wet steam.
Most often because they become air/water-locked. A cast iron radiator system works by sending steam (which naturally rises) up from the lower level into each radiator. When the steam heats the cast iron it loses enough heat so that it cools back to a water (liquid) state. When this happens, the water must flow back to the burner all by itself, propelled ONLY BY GRAVITY. So if at any point in the loop ANY length of pipe has sagged so that it is not downhill enough to allow the water to drain, the system will become locked at that point and no steam will pass by, thus cutting off heat to all radiators beyond the blockage. The most common fix for this is putting shims underneath the feet of the radiator on the opposite side of the pipe only, thus angling the radiator down for full drainage. Many times people will cause the issue themselves by putting a floor or tile underneath the radiator, inadvertently removing the angle. Other times, the natural sagging of the house removes the angle put in when the system was originally installed. So, your best bet is to 1.) Shim all non-working radiators downward toward the pipe, 2.) Drain the whole system (from the spigot at the base of the burner) of all water (and air), and 3.) re-fill the burner with water to the appropriate water pressure. Replacing the steam valves on each non-working radiator is a good idea as well.
Steam economy is the ratio between total steam evaporated and steam consumed Se=Steam evaporated/steam flow at start should be above 1 for multi effect systems
It depends on the type of system you have. 1 pipe in, or 1 pipe in and 1 pipe out. Single pipe in/out, try replacing the relief valve or simply shimming the end of the radiator opposite where the pipe comes in. This lets water bleed out of the radiator and stops the klanging.
How It Works Steam Train - 1993 was released on: USA: 1 August 1993
Yes. I use a turkey fryer pot 3/4 full of water and 500 ml glycerine. Bring to a boil then back off heat to maintain steam. I direct steam through a homemade steam box made of 2" PVC pipe. Steam for 2 hours per 1" thickness of wood. This method works well for kiln dried wood. You need NOT use glycerine if wood is green when bending but steam for same amount of time.
That would depend on the pressure as there is something called pressure /temperature relationship @ 1 PSI the steam is 212 deg That would depend on the pressure as there is something called pressure /temperature relationship @ 1 PSI the steam is 212 deg
I don't quite get what you mean. -A vent pipe in a plumbing system is usually 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe and may extend through the roof, or may end in a AAV under a countertop.
go to youtube type in poptropica SOS island walkthrough part 1 it will tell you what to do there.
The recommended installation technique for 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe in a residential plumbing system includes cutting the pipe to the required length using a hacksaw, deburring the edges, dry-fitting the pipe to ensure proper alignment, applying ABS cement to the pipe and fittings, and then joining them together firmly. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes for a safe and effective installation.
I have recently had to join a 1 inch steel water pipe to a new copper 28mm pipe. You can do this using a 28mm comression joint. 1inch is just uneder 28mm in diameter but the compression joint takes up the difference and works without fault or leaks.
Actually their is no definite KKS Code for Geothermal Steam Field, especially for Geothermal Steam Pipe line identification.... You can used LBA for Geothermal Steam Field coding with variation on its "Numerical Sequencing" (under BDL 1&2) and LBB & LBJ for Geothermal Power Plant, also used variation on its "Numerical Sequencing" for proper line identification.from "Albert Einstein" of the Philippinesdsdelarosajr@yahoo.com
Nothing as long as the pressure pipe is not used for potable water as you cannot make a direct connection and depending on the GPM flow what size the larger sewer pipe is as 1 GPM (pumping) is considered 1 fixture unit when sizing the drainage system ALSO make sure the pumps system enters at a right angle 45 deg so your not eroding the side of the larger pipe out
The size of sprinkler pipe you should use for your irrigation system depends on the water flow and pressure needed. Generally, a 1-inch pipe is recommended for larger systems or areas with high water demand, while a 3/4-inch pipe is suitable for smaller systems or areas with lower water demand. It is important to consider factors such as water pressure, flow rate, and the number of sprinkler heads when choosing the pipe size for your irrigation system.
Buy a kit from auto parts or Wal-Mart comes with instructions Actually, this A4 only has a high pressure port. The Walmart / Autozone kits should really only be used with a low pressure port. I would find a someone that works on VWs. What I did was to get a low presure pipe with the valve in the junker, cut the valve leaving 1-1/2" of pipe in both sides of the valve, then I open the pipe in half, make a hole in the low pressure pipe and clamp the low valve with hose clamps, I use a rubber hose as a seal. recharge system and done. Works perfect.