They are usually made of a plastic called urea-formaldehyde.
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It's the standard Type 'G' 3-pin plug used in the UK for electrical equipment and appliances. It should always contain a cartridge fuse of the right size to match the current or "amperage" drawn by the equipment/appliance it is supplying with power. Standard fuses to fit the plug are available in 13 amp, 5 amp, 3 amp and 1 amp sizes. For more information see the Related Link and the answer to the Related Question shown below.
Yes, if the manufacturer installed a parallel blade 15 amp rating cap on the end of the cord then just plug it in. The circuit that you plug into should be a dedicated circuit (nothing else on the circuit) because the amperage will be 13 amps at 120 volts.
No more than 13 maximum on a 20 amp circuit.
From your question, and the terminology used, you appear to be referring to the UK residential electrical system. The following answer therefore refers only to a UK installation.Most ovens ('cookers') are designed to operate on a separate circuit with its own circuit breaker or fuse (e.g. 30 A for ovens up to 12 kW, or 45 A for ovens above 12 kW). Trying to operate such a oven from a 13-A circuit will simply cause the plug's fuse to operate, disconnecting the oven from the supply. So, while the oven will be protected, you won't be able to use it as it will keep blowing the fuse in the plug! It certainly won't melt the plug, as suggested in the original answer.However, some small, countertop, ovens (e.g. the 'Baby Belling' brand), which are specifically designed for use in the kitchens of small flats or apartments ('bed sitters') are specifically designed to run off a 13-A plug.
In most cases that will work just fine. But it might not; you just have to try. Going smaller is safe.