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In deeper water offshore, incoming waves move at constant speed, but they slow down in shallower waters. As an incoming wave approaches the shoreline at an oblique angle, the part of the wave in shallower water will have a lower speed than the part in deeper water. These different speeds for different parts of the same wave cause the wave to refract (bend). In general, wave refraction rotates obliquely incoming waves toward parallelism with the coastline. Over time, headland erosion and deposition in protected bays and coves tend to even out irregularities, thus straightening the coastline.

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Wave refraction causes waves to bend and focus energy on headlands, resulting in erosion of those areas. This erosion leads to sediment being transported and deposited in adjacent sheltered bays or areas, forming beaches or sandbars. This natural process helps balance sediment distribution along Coastlines.

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Q: How does wave refraction result in sediment deposition in some shoreline areas?
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How does wave refraction result in sediment deposition in some shoreline area?

In deeper water offshore, incoming waves move at constant speed, but they slow down in shallower waters. As an incoming wave approaches the shoreline at an oblique angle, the part of the wave in shallower water will have a lower speed than the part in deeper water. These different speeds for different parts of the same wave cause the wave to refract (bend). In general, wave refraction rotates obliquely incoming waves toward parallelism with the coastline. Over time, headland erosion and deposition in protected bays and coves tend to even out irregularities, thus straightening the coastline.


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How does Levi faction result in sediment deposition in some shoreline areas?

In deeper water offshore, incoming waves move at constant speed, but they slow down in shallower waters. As an incoming wave approaches the shoreline at an oblique angle, the part of the wave in shallower water will have a lower speed than the part in deeper water. These different speeds for different parts of the same wave cause the wave to refract (bend). In general, wave refraction rotates obliquely incoming waves toward parallelism with the coastline. Over time, headland erosion and deposition in protected bays and coves tend to even out irregularities, thus straightening the coastline.


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