not the correct mortar used, or air gaps when flooring was laid and water seeped in.
WHOA !! Think this through before taking any action!!
Do Not go hiring an attorney or making a claim that the "Correct Mortar" was not used. That could lead to Months if not Years of litigation. Then you'll probably realize that no one will be able to Prove what happened and you've wasted a lot of time and money!
A tile install is an Art Form practiced by any number of people, some of which don't understand the Science behind a good install.
Mortar usually referred to as Thin Set is a cement based mixture of cement, fine sand as an aggregate and a pigment to the color of your choice. There are conditions that will compromise a mortar mix: too much or too little water, flash set, or holding the mixture too long before applying to the surfaces. This is the Art part. The installer needs to know what he's doing.
The Science part involves achieving a good bond. You need a good bond between the concrete floor and the thin set and a good bond between the underneath side of the tile and the thin set. By virtue of the tile manufacturing process; in almost all cases the tile does not absorb mix water from the mortar and a good bond is fairly easy to obtain. [Need to make certain there is nothing on the underneath side of a tile to keep the mortar from bonding].
The concrete slab is porous and will absorb water from your thin set! This causes essential water in the mortar mix to wick into the concrete and not allow for complete hydration of the mortar mix and a questionable [at best] bond is formed. This will happen unless you waterproof the concrete substrate Before you attempt a tile install.
A concrete slab that is not waterproofed will also expel chemicals from within the concrete slab that cause a dis-bond of the thin set. Alkali, efflorescence, saponification and alkali silica reactions in a concrete slab are all factors in breaking a bond. In your Flood, the concrete most assuredly absorbed Flood water and caused internal chemistry of your slab to come up to the surface that destroyed the bond. After you remove the tile and get an acceptable profile, Waterproof the concrete slab with a sealer that penetrates into the slab and fills the capillary voids with a solid material. Insist on a warranty for waterproofing by the product [15 years] and do not even consider a concrete sealer that allows for a re-application !! What happened to the first stuff we applied??
Obtaining a bond between cementitious materials is at best, tircky. It's impossible unless the host material is waterproofed!! That's the Science !
Required slump height of M20 for different concrete structures, are normally calculated by the required slump value, which would come out to be 100 lits.
Concrete paving slabs are used in construction and placed along ground and an organized way so that they may be walked on or used for decoration. They usually come in either lighter or darker shades of grey. Colors vary.
As soon as the Cement comes into contact with water. This will start as soon as the cement and aggregates come into contact unless the aggregates have been dried of all surface water.
I would hire a leak detection company first. They should be able to pinpoint the leak to within 1 foot. A leak detection company is not always a plumber, but they can be. Ask them. Use someone like United Leak Detection or American leak detection Than I would consider either jackhammering thru the floor and fix the pipe, or bypassing all that and just run new lines thru the walls and or attic. If you are in a warm climate this can be a better option for you. In cold climates, you need to have a second story so that freezing is not a problem. Problem is that your leak might just be the first one of many to come. Thus therefore, I would recommend just bypassing all the jackhammering and such, and just have the plumber run new lines. So my answer is: run new lines thru the walls or attic. Unless you can't then you won't.
It's always best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations but in general, solid tongue and groove hardwood flooring should not be installed on concrete. Many of the laminated tongue and groove pre-finished products can be glued down to a concrete slab. Actually (I am simply improving this question I didnt want to delete the first response) I manufacture hardwood floors, If you are installing floors in a basement the question should be if the floor is solid or engineered. Typically solid wood flooring should not be installed in a basement because the sub-terrain environment is more susceptible to humidity. The moisture then causes the floors to warp. Engineered wood, however is recommended for basements and they often come as tongue and groove. See : Related Links
God directly says in the Bible, that he would never send another flood onto Earth.
No, they come before the flood. They came during creation.
When it is God's will.
Your house could flood and it would desolve
There is no specific antonym for the concrete noun true, an accurate alignment or adjustment. As close as you can come would be 'out of true', not in the correct position.
Ceramic coffee cups come in a variety of sizes: from ones for espresso to lattes. There is, therefore, no single answer.
flood it
Yes, it can come in contact with concrete.
Nothing. Concrete doesn't come in gallons for measuring. Milk is in gallons.
The difference between ceramic and porcelin floor tiles is ceramic tyles are make of ceramic and porcelin tiles are made of porcelin. They both come in various sizes and styles. Ceramic tyles are usually better for floors and porcelin tiles are usually better for walls and showers.
Water before the great flood most likely would have come from the same sources as today. For example, clouds would have produced rainfall that could have been collected in primitive rain barrels. Water also could have been collected from riversand lakes.
Toilets and sinks P.S it will stink