not the correct mortar used, or air gaps when flooring was laid and water seeped in. WHOA !! Think this through before taking any action!! Do Not go hiring an attorney or making a claim that the "Correct Mortar" was not used. That could lead to Months if not Years of litigation. Then you'll probably realize that no one will be able to Prove what happened and you've wasted a lot of time and money! A tile install is an Art Form practiced by any number of people, some of which don't understand the Science behind a good install. Mortar usually referred to as Thin Set is a cement based mixture of cement, fine sand as an aggregate and a pigment to the color of your choice. There are conditions that will compromise a mortar mix: too much or too little water, flash set, or holding the mixture too long before applying to the surfaces. This is the Art part. The installer needs to know what he's doing. The Science part involves achieving a good bond. You need a good bond between the concrete floor and the thin set and a good bond between the underneath side of the tile and the thin set. By virtue of the tile manufacturing process; in almost all cases the tile does not absorb mix water from the mortar and a good bond is fairly easy to obtain. [Need to make certain there is nothing on the underneath side of a tile to keep the mortar from bonding]. The concrete slab is porous and will absorb water from your thin set! This causes essential water in the mortar mix to wick into the concrete and not allow for complete hydration of the mortar mix and a questionable [at best] bond is formed. This will happen unless you waterproof the concrete substrate Before you attempt a tile install. A concrete slab that is not waterproofed will also expel chemicals from within the concrete slab that cause a dis-bond of the thin set. Alkali, efflorescence, saponification and alkali silica reactions in a concrete slab are all factors in breaking a bond. In your Flood, the concrete most assuredly absorbed Flood water and caused internal chemistry of your slab to come up to the surface that destroyed the bond. After you remove the tile and get an acceptable profile, Waterproof the concrete slab with a sealer that penetrates into the slab and fills the capillary voids with a solid material. Insist on a warranty for waterproofing by the product [15 years] and do not even consider a concrete sealer that allows for a re-application !! What happened to the first stuff we applied?? Obtaining a bond between cementitious materials is at best, tircky. It's impossible unless the host material is waterproofed!! That's the Science !
Mixing concrete is a basic skill that all DIY enthusiasts should know how to do. Concrete is one of the most common and inexpensive construction materials on the planet being comprised mostly of sand, gravel and cement. Mixing concrete is similar to baking in that to achieve consistent results it is best to follow a specific recipe. There are a multitude of different concrete mixes for different applications depending on the strength, workability and application for the concrete. Mixing concrete is very much a science for professionals, but to the average backyard enthusiast, learning the basics of concrete is enough to get you started. When mixing concrete you will need to mix aggregates such as sand and gravel along with cement powder and water as a catalyst to begin the chemical process of bonding the ingredients together. Mixing concrete is a function of proportions where you will measure the volume of aggregate used to the volume of cement used. The most common concrete mix used worldwide is the 3-2-1 mix which uses three parts gravel, two parts sand and one part cement. Water is added with the idea that you should use as little water as possible to make the concrete workable for what you need it for. Concrete viscosity is measured by "slump" which refers to a specific test where the amount that a cone filed with concrete will lose its shape once the cone is removed is measured in inches or mm. A concrete with zero slump would be very rigid and dry and inclined to hold its shape, where a concrete with a slump of six inches or more would be extremely wet and not inclined to hold a shape. The 3-2-1 mix is so widely used since you can fill large areas with concrete for relatively cheap. You could potentially use only sand and cement, no gravel, to create what is called mortar. In the 3-2-1 mix the gravel serves as a filler taking up a great deal of space while retaining a relatively high overall strength. The disadvantage of the 3-2-1 mix is that the larger gravel aggregate will often float to the surface during finishing, and is unsuitable for thin or detailed concrete applications. The best overall mix for a DIY enthusiast to memorize and use is a simple 3:1 mortar mix. By using three parts sand and one part mortar you can create the strongest concrete possible as well as concrete that is easy to finish and detail with designs, templates or stamps. By not using the gravel the mortar will have a smoother overall consistency, but will ultimately occupy less volume than concrete made using gravel as well. If you are pouring very large volumes of concrete the gravel could prove to be cost effective however for most DIY projects a 3:1 mortar mix is the way to go. The sand that you need to use for a 3:1 mortar mix should be sharp sand, or masonry sand or jointing sand. Each place that you purchase sand will use a different term so it can be confusing when shopping. All that you need to remember is to avoid play sand. Play sand is sand that has been washed and sterilized (this is ok) and then tumbled to soften all the edges of the individual sand grains (this is bad). The sharp edges of the sand help to hold together the concrete mix better than the rounded edges of the tumbled sand. Ideally you would like to find sand from landscape supply stores which will sell to you by the cubic yard. With a strong trailer you can pick up as much sand as you could possibly need for next to nothing - plus the quality of the sand for making cement will be very high. The applications for a DIY enthusiast to use a 3:1 mortar mix are huge. Everything from fixing broken outdoor steps and stairs, driveways, patios, decks, ponds, waterfalls, artificial rock, statues and much more is possible with a simple mix of sand, cement and water. Start with small concrete projects to get a better feel and understanding for how to work with concrete. Since concrete is so popular world wide, and is a highly advanced science, you will never run out of interesting concrete applications to learn about or try. Combined with being the most affordable construction material on the planet and readily available everywhere - learning to mix basic concrete recipes is a fundamental DIY project. Canadian author and second generation swimming pool expert Steve Goodale has an extensive tutorial series and online following for his instructional information on artificial rock and swimming pool construction and repair.
A z-score is a linear transformation. There is nothing to "prove".
the credit crunch will prove to be a strain on many marriages-especially if it leads to mass unemployment. leave your car at home,let the train take the strain. (rail advert)
Cannot prove that 2 divided by 10 equals 2 because it is not true.
You can't it equals 2. You can't it equals 2.
No you can not prove that 9 +10 = 21.
No, but there is a way to prove that zero equals one.
Using faulty logic.
a0=(a-1\a-1)=a\a=1
The circumference of a circle is its boundary - it is a perimeter and therefore is a linear measure. Whether it is a smooth curve, as in the case of a circle, or a set of line segments meeting at vertices is irrelevant to its being linear.
Using a calculator
AAS (apex)
SAS