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There are three common sources of no spark on all cylinders:

- failure of the coil,

- failure of the ignition control module ("ignitor"), or

- the button contact in the distributor cap is sticking.

The ignitor is an expensive part to replace (list is over $400), and

some less-common failures are difficult to diagnose. The common

failures are easily diagnosable since there is a tachometer output and

engine computer gets a feedback signal indicating that the ignitor

thinks it has triggered a spark. Indications that it's still good are if

- the tach jumps when cranking the engine, and

- if there are no engine computer error codes.

The ignitor is mounted on the left strut tower where it's easily seen,

but you'll need to unclip the air filter cover to remove it.

The coil is less expensive, but it's inside the distributor and thus

more difficult to replace. You'll need to remove the air filter cover

then the distributor cap to test the coil. The primary should measure

less than 1 ohm between the screw terminals, and the secondary should

measure between 9K and 15K ohms between either screw terminal and where

the distributor cap button makes contact. A resistance lower than 9K

ohms indicates the coil has at least partially failed and should be

replaced.

Tools to replace coil and distributor parts

#2 Phillips screwdriver for coil mounting screws

7mm (1/4") nut driver for coil terminals

8mm driver (or #2 Phillips) for distributor cap screws

10mm socket (or #3 Phillips) for air duct clamp

12mm socket and 3"+ extension for distributor hold-down bolts

12mm open-end wrench for throttle cable

Small screwdriver or plastic tool to

Remove distributor o-ring

Release plug wires from distributor cap

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βˆ™ 13y ago
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Q: Why dont your Toyota Camry have spark?
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