Could be a coil or ICM, Ignition Control Module.
Could be: clogged cat converter bad ignition module bad coil I'd check to make sure cat converter isn't getting red hot when running for a few minutes, if so then clogged. Then I'd replace the ignition module, check, then coil.
Check the ignition coil. Its possible that the coil has a broken wire inside that when the engine is cold makes good contact, but when the engine warms up the heat causes the wires to expand and break contact. Also check the ignition module, the same thing can happen there.
the two most common no start when hot causes are fuel pump in your fuel tank and loss of spark ignition module
It could be that the Ignition Control Module is faulty. There are known to go bad during the motor being hot, but once cooled down the engine will start. This is located on the front of the motor, underneath the the coil packs. You have to take the coil packs off, and unplug the ICM (Ignition Contol Module), and it will fall off from there.
ignition module problem
Primary wire comes from ignition key to hot side of coil.
Bad ignition module, crank sensor, or coil pack. Especially if yours is equipped with the magnavox coil pack vs the delco coils which have 3-seperate coils.
im assuming your looking for hot wires on the coil. They should be two wires of the coil
A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module's electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store. Or take it to AutoZone- they can test modules using a computer for FREE.
Hey; Check the ballist resistor, and the voltage regulator. Unidrv
on the left side front of engine there will be 3 coil packs in a line. take the two screws off each coil pack and fold coil pack back and module will come free from under coil packs you will then need a 7mm nut driver to take loose wiring harness.try to remember to put heat displacement material on new module .it gets pretty hot there