Mixing clearcoat with paint, will ruin the paint.For enamel paints, make sure you use an enamel clearcoat. You should allow the paint to fully cure (at least a week) before attempting to apply the clearcoat. Never use a lacquer based clearcoat on an enamel based paint. It will ruin it.For lacquer based paint, you should only use a lacquer based clearcoat. The paint should be dry, but does not have to be fully cured, since the lacquer will wet the coat of paint below it anyway.
Clearcoat.
Stone Shield is a brand name for a clearcoat applied to automotive paint.
If I wanted any clearcoat to make a paint shinier, I'd use a Krylon spray gloss varnish. Most oil based gloss paints are so hard and shiny they really don't need a clearcoat.
No, car wax has not become obsolete in the view of new technology. Let's look at the situation a bit more closely. Paint can oxidize and is affected by the elements. Though paints (called coatings by the industry) are improved constantly, there is still no paint that will not be attacked (however slowly) by weather and the other assaults on automotive finishes. Even a clearcoat is just another layer of paint. It is not a wax or sealant. Clearcoat dries out and oxidizes the same as paint, but more quickly. The idea of using clearcoat is to give the elements something else to attack other than the paint. Wax is applied for the same reason; the outer layer of wax takes the beating rather than clearcoat (if used) or the paint itself. Certainly wax will not last nearly as long a clearcoat, so it must be reapplied to be effective. And the clearcoat is not as resistant to oxidation as the paint, so it will "wear out" eventually and have to be reapplied to protect paint.
I use the hardest paint I can find and almost always finish coat it with a really good clearcoat.
Yes, but it will be much better if you spray it with an auto primer first, and a good clearcoat after your colour. Krylon makes excellent hard clearcoat sprays, available in Walmart.
no you do not sand when using acrylic, nor should you have to clearcoat.
you dont mix it in the paint. you put on a base coat . then spray the flake on in a clearcoat. about 25grams per liter of mixed clearcoat. spay as much for required for efect. then spray abut 6-10 more coats of clear on top to give gloss and cover flakes. easy. not. you dont mix it in the paint. you put on a base coat . then spray the flake on in a clearcoat. about 25grams per liter of mixed clearcoat. spay as much for required for efect. then spray abut 6-10 more coats of clear on top to give gloss and cover flakes. easy. not.
For the 1995 Ford Explorer XLT : Brilliant blue clearcoat metallic Dark blue clearcoat metallic Deep emerald green clearcoat metallic Medium willow green clearcoat metallic Light willow green clearcoat metallic Charcoal grey clearcoat metallic Mocha frost clearcoat metallic Electric red clearcoat metallic Black clearcoat Oxford white clearcoat
You might try disolving 3 tablespoons of baking soda in a bucket of warm water; lightly sponge on vehicle , rinse then wash. be sure to towel dry to avoid new spotting. If spots have already etched into finish this will not remove them
I would use a good hard enamel like Tremclad (available in Home Depot) and if you're painting a design on it I'd protect that with a good clearcoat.