First time changers will find it difficult. Pull cap...flip to one side, mark position of rotor tab with an indelible marker or scribe on distributor housing. Mark position of vacuum advance on valve cover or head. When you reinstall it must be in this exact position. (do not turn engine)
Remove clamp and wires. Pop up distributor and remove. Apply lube to gear on new distributor. Pop in distributor loosely till the rotor meshes slightly. Lift distributor slightly and walk rotor around so it is close to the original mark. (note: this takes patience) When you have the right spot, the distributor will pop in and there will be no gap under the base. If not , keep walking the rotor around. In effect, you are lining up the oil pump slot. You will feel it "pop" in. The rotor position and vacuum can position must be identical to your first check before you removed it. Tighten clamp till snug and time with timing light.
Re-attach wires and cap.
If you should accidentally disturb motor, remove no 1 plug. (always the cylinder closest to the radiator) , turn engine till compression is felt with thumb. Line up the damper by rotating slightly to the 6, 8, or 10 btc position. Find where no 1 is on the gap. Mark this position on the housing. Install distributor with rotor pointed at the mark. Fine tune timing upon start up.
305 is the same distributor as a 350 will even fit some big block chevy's.
NO.
i have a gm goodwrench 350 with a summit hei distributor in my 58 Chevy truckits about 1/2 inch from my firewallso... little room to spare but yes it worked
where does the hot wire come from going to the distributor on a chevy 350
The distributor should face forward rather than backward on the Chevy 350. It is important to mark the front face of the distributor before removing it.
Yes. Its a direct bolt in.
The distributor and the oil filter.
no
inside the distributor.
yes
No
no