A guess would be a bad brake booster. Usually if the brake fluid leaks into the booster it rots out the diaphragm and causes it to leak. Could also be the vacumm hose to the booster. Without more information it's hard to tell.
Normal leak points that are hard to see are inside the rear drums, along the frame, and into the brake booster.Normal leak points that are hard to see are inside the rear drums, along the frame, and into the brake booster.
Sounds like a bad brake booster. If you are getting an extended braking distance, you may also want to check for a rear wheel cylinder leak.AnswerYou also might want to check to see if the engine vacuum is low. If the vehicle is newer than '90 or so, it probably has a sensor that determines if the rear wheels are braking. If hydraulic pressure is uneven between front and rear you will usually see a brake indicator light come on. I agree that the vacuum assist may be the culprit, but also make certain that you are getting enough vacuum to the brakes. Low vacuum can be caused by a number of problems, so it may take a little checking. I would recommend a vacuum gauge. They are quite inexpensive and can be picked up at most auto parts stores. Also check to see if you have a vac. leak at the booster canister where the vac. line plugs into it, if the master cylinder is leaking brake fluid through the rear seal of the spool valve it can enter the power brake booster and destroy the diaphragm seal causing the power brake booster to fail....thus hard as heck brake pedal(meaning you have no vacuumn assist) it's easy to check for a brake fluid leak....just pull the master cylinder mounting bolts off the power brake booster(either 2 or 4 bolts or nuts) and look at the rear side of the master cylinder seal to see if brake fluid is prevalent, also with a light look inside the power brake booster for tell tale signs of brake fluid leakage.
Brake boosters are used only on power brakes, not manual brakes. The booster's function is to give more braking power with minimal pressure on the brake pedal. If the booster is not working properly, you will still have brakes, but the brake pedal will be very hard to push.A brake booster is what gives power brakes their power. It works on vacuum from the engine. The booster pushes on the master cylinder with the pressure applied to the booster by stepping on the brake. If the engine is off, it cannot get vacuum, therefore the brakes will be hard when the engine is off. This is noticeable when pushing a stalled vehicle and stepping on the brake.ConstructionThe brake booster is made of five parts: the booster piston, body, booster return spring, control valve and reaction valve. The body has two chambers--the variable pressure chamber and constant pressure chamber--separated by a diaphragm.TypesThe brake boosters 's size and whether it has a single or more than one diaphragm depend on the year, make and model of the vehicle. When ordering a new booster, tell the auto parts store or dealer the year, make and model of your vehicle, and they will give you the correct one.
Sounds like either the brake booster is failing/leaking, or the vacuum line(s) to it are plugged or leaking. Check the vacuum lines first since that's cheap and easy. If it isn't the lines, start the engine and try to listen for rushing air from or inside the brake booster (it may be hard to hear with the engine running). If you can't hear it, go to your favourite mechanic tell them the symptoms and ask to have the brake booster checked (and any other suggestions your mechanic might think of). The brake booster is the large, round 'tank' mounted to the firewall and that your brake master cylinder is mounted to.
The basic test is this: Sit in the driver's seat with the engine not running. Depress the brake pedal and release several times. You should notice increased resistance each time, until the pedal feels very firm. Keep foot pressure on the brake pedal, and start the engine. The pedal should sink slowly. If it does not, you have a faulty power brake booster. Also check for vacuum leaks, clogged filter (if equipped), or bad check valve between the engine and the booster. Also if you hear the engine idle speed change when you apply the brake at an idle, the booster is bad.
The brake pedal becomes hard to push in order to stop the vehicle and when the brake is applied you may also hear a vacuum leak and the engine rpm at idle changes.
Brake booster can leak - both small hard to detect leaks & big leaks (easy because if it leaked a lot) your brake pedal would be really hard to push - just like it is when the engine is off & you pushed on the brakes. If a small eak sometimes harder to tell if it's bad - as brake pedal may "slowly" go down when you push on it. If it is bad the pedal will get harder to push. start engine leave in park hold brake pedal down for 1 minute, if it starts to go down then there is a leak somewhere otherwise it shoukld stay where it was
The break pedal will be hard to push are when you push the brake pedal all the way down the engine will start running rough are you may even here air sucking / Vaccum leak.
While brake lines can break or blow out from rust it is usually under the car where they get dirt, salt, and road abuse. Doesn't mean yours didn't go at the master cylindar. If you have a question where the leak is, dry off the master cylindar and the vacuum booster behind it and the lines as well as you can. Fill the master and pump it a couple of times. You should be able to tell for certain where the leak is. I wonder if it is at the back of the master where it bolts to the booster? That is fairly common. Whatever the problem it is just a matter of replacing the part. The brakes will need to be bled all the way around.
Since a vacuum leak is basically an opening in a suctioned area, it is possible. The best way to check would be to either use a vacuum gauge and connect it to any of your vacuum lines while plugging the other side. Another good way to tell if you have a vacuum leak is to put soapy water around your intake manifold and any other vacuum areas. If you see bubbles or the water being sucked inside, you have just discovered your vacuum leak location. Hope this is helpful
If you push on the brake pedal and the engine RPM goes up that would be an indicator. After running the engine for a while shut it off and wait a few minutes. Remove the vacuum line and connector at the booster. You should hear a burst of air rushing in. This would indicate that the booster is holding vacuum....which is what you want. You can also start the car and depress the pedal. Turn off the engine. If the pedal stays in the same position for 30 seconds this would indicate the booster is air tight. If it fails any of these tests it's a good bet you need a new one.