Cyl head: 40-43 lbs/ft Mains: 30-36 lbs/ft Big Ends: 23-28 lbs/ft fly wheel: 47-54 lbs/ft
I did mine to 27, then 43 foot-pounds. I later learned that you are supposed to torque them to 47.
first 22lbs then 47 lbs or 49lbs
37# to 47# initial, 63# to 73# final. if you are using the old bolts with a thread sealer (aviation sealer works the best. saves you about 40 bucks on a bolt kit) tighten to 78# on final.
There are two steps to torque the head.(1)40-47 foot pounds/ft lbs.(2)65-80 ft lbs. 1 for first round.2 for last round.
in a CRISS CROSS PATTERN 18FT LBS 22 FT LBS 47 FT LBS
For the 1992 Chevy S-10, 2.2 liter, first tighten the cylinder head bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. If you're using new bolts finishing tightening them to 54-61 ft. lbs. If you're using the original bolts, finish tightening them to 61-69 ft. lbs.
0
47 Ft./Lbs
47-52 depending on carb settings
The head bolts torque in three steps. First torque all the bolts to 36.1 ft/lbs, then loosen all bolts in reverse fashion. Now torque them to 18 ft/lbs. Finally turn all head bolts 90 degrees. The order is essentially from the center two, forward and rear, then working out evenly left and right tightening forward and rear each time. Replace all the head bolts, never using the old ones. The two short bolts go on the passenger side, (last two holes forward and rear on the passengers side). The rod bearing to crankshaft torques at 47 - 51 ft/lbs, however, I had trouble with mine stripping the bolts and ended up replacing all the bolts and nuts. They would strip about 40 ft/lbs. Torque all nuts to 30, then 38, then 47 ft/lbs.
he cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design. 6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.). Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 N·m (35 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.). Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.).