In most common starting systems for gas (and, for that matter, diesel) powered vehicles, when the ignition switch is turned to the "start" position, several things happen. The combination ignition/start switch has multiple contacts: some allow electrical power to go to various accessories, some provide power to the ignition system, and others allow power to flow to the starter system.
The switch itself does no carry the high current necessary to power the starter motor. Instead, it typically will allow power to flow to a "starter relay", which is a kind of electrical switch. The electricity from the switch energizes a relatively small electromagnet which is used to operate a much larger set of contacts. These larger contacts then carry the high power used to operate the starter motor itself.
Of course, newer cars are somewhat more complex. In most newer cars, the start logic is controlled by the cars' computer, and the ignition switch is simply used to tell the computer that someone wants to start the engine. The computer looks at several different things, including the cars' security system (is the correct key or electronic fob being used?), but once it's satisfied, it then sends power to a starter relay, which then allows power to flow to the starter motor. (By the way, the various hybrid models are even more different, and should not be included in this description!)
NO, there is no coalition between the ignition switch and the transmission. The ignition switch does 2 things. Turns on power to the electrical system for the engine and supplies power to the starter during start-up.
A starter will not disengage if the ignition switch is stuck or if the solenoid has jammed. This will cause the starter to constantly receive power.
Check power from your ignition, and power at the starter
If you battery has plenty of power, either faulty contacts in ignition switch or starter motor, or faulty starter motor.
You don't. It could be the solenoid (which is basically a heavy duty switch that connects the heavy battery lead to the starter motor) The ignition key supplies a little power on a thin black line down to the solenoid causing it to magnetize and throw the "heavy switch" turning over the starter motor. That clicking you hear when you first turn the key is power to the starter solenoid. Either there is enough power or not enough. However, some parts store will check your starting system FREE.
You want to bypass the ignition system and jump the solenoid to see if the starter engages. I f it does, it is not the starter,if it doesn't, than it is the stater. You can also jump power straight from the batt to the pos cable of the starter to see if it engages.
The positive battery cable connects directly to the starter. Depending on what type of vehicle it is, the solenoid is either on the starter or on the inner fender. Power for the solenoid comes from the ignition switch. You can run a wire to the solenoid to cause the starter to engage.
First, make sure your all of your electrical connections and fuses are good. (battery cables are not corroded and cable to starter and ground are good) If they are good, it sounds like you either have a bad ignition switch or starter. You might try having someone turn the ignition switch to start position while using a multi-tester to see if you are getting power to the starter. If you are getting power to the starter, and it won't engage, chances are you need a new starter. If you do not have power to the starter, you might have a bad ignition switch. In certain circumstances you might try tapping on the starter with a hammer while someone is turning the ignition switch to see if it will engage. If it will, I would look to a bad starter. I have found that a majority of the time, a starter is the problem, not the ignition switch. Hope this helps.
In a nonelectronic small engine ignition system, which of the following ignition components is energized by the power source first?
1. bad starter selenoid 2. blown fuse in the circuit 3. bad ground at the starter (not likely, but possible) Start at the starter, with a test light, and work your way back through the curcuit until you find power. That's where the problem will be. If the starter has no power move to the selenoid. If the selenoid had no power in the switch circuit move to the fuse. If the selenoid has no power on the battery side move to the fusable link. Keep working your way to the ignition switch.
Not much info to go on. Is the starter cranking the engine?
you can disconnect the starter relay and run a wire from the starter wire in the connector to the power wire on it p.s. it is easyer to take a curcit tester and probe the connectors with someone truning the ignition switch to fine the starter the starter wire is brown and im not sure about the power lead from the ignition switch