there is the old petrol setup witch is, the distributor is turned by the cam shaft triggering a spark in the distributor cap witch runs threw the leads into the spark plug and the plug plugs fires in the bore when the piston is on the power stroke.
then there is the new setup where the computer sends signals to the coil pack and the coil pack sends out electricity threw the leads casing a spark threw the spark plug
With or without a distributor. With uses a Hall Effect sensor in place of points. Without a distributor (DIS) there is a digital circuit triggered by a Crank and/or Cam shaft sensor( generally a cam sensor is more fuel injector related) . This signal tells the ECU when to ground which coils.
It depends if it has a electronic trigger and which board it has in it. If it's the stock version with out an electronic trigger, it proberly won't have 3 round burst. But see if you can find out if it has a electronic trigger and if that has the 3 round burst setting.
Just not enough spark for todays gasoline. Maintenance issues as you are required to adjust and change them out. Electronic ignition is the way to go a lot fewer moving parts. Small block Chevy is easy just install an electronic distributor run batt. power to a fused ignition source you are done.
purple is the trigger wire for the starter. Yellow is the ignition wire.
A trigger terminal is a location on an electronic device where an external signal can be applied to initiate a specific action or process, such as activating a function or interrupting a circuit. It is commonly used in electronic testing and measurements to synchronize different devices or trigger specific events.
No.
Trigger is a statement that is automatically executed by the system as a side effect of a modification to the database. Several existing systems have their own non standard trigger functions. For a trigger we need to specify the condition under which the trigger is executed.
Remove the ignition coil, the ignition module and the ignition trigger & its rotor in the nosecone. Install new mechanical advance unit and points plate (with condensor) in place of OEM electronic trigger plate and run its single wire to the negative post on a new points-type coil (you can't reuse the OEM coil, which only works on electronic ignitions). Replace OEM spark plug wires with solid points-type plug wires and reduce spark plug gap to .028" Run the white wire that went to the old coil to the new coil's positive terminal and set point gap & ignition timing using a timing light and the stock timing mark on the left flywheel. Just my opinion, replacing a modern electronic ignition with points is a huge step backwards. Points aren't as accurate as a Hall-effect trigger and mechanical advance units are generally problematic. Without constant lubrication they can get stuck in the fully advanced position, making the bike impossible to start. Also condensors have a finite lifespan. In addition, points are constantly arcing & wearing and thus must be filed and readjusted every few thousand miles, whereas an electronic ignition remains accurate indifinitely, provided it's tuned correctly to begin with. If you seek improved ignition performance, my advice would be to simply replace the EPA-friendly OEM ignition with a Crane HI-4 race ignition, which has a fully tunable advance, adjustable rev limiter and even a built-in static timing light. Once tuned it will stay tuned.
I havent done this YET. but maybe a Spyder Electronic trigger?
its kinda like a hairpin triggers it fires real quick
more accurate spark timing and combustion
IT is a electronic trigger so u can shoot faster . mainly used for speedball guns. if u have a woods ball gun don't upgrade it to a eframe trigger leave it alone. 3YRS paintbal player I have a spyder fenix