The key is lots of capacitance, as close to the amp as possible, and thick cables capable of carrying lots of current.
Answer 3Be very careful with that thing. The current output of a capacitor is the product of capacitance, in this case 1, and the change in voltage with time. Thus, if you do something to cause a quick change in voltage with that, you will get a very large current spike, possibly hundreds or even thousands of amps.Also note for this reason you should really pre charge capacitors of this size. Let's say you have 1 ought wire run from your battery to the cap, with a resistance of .001 ohms. (I actually have no idea what the resistance of your wire is, I just made that up for argument's sake) When you connect the discharged capacitor, you are causing an instantaneous change in voltage. (IE dv/dt equals infinity) This means that the capacitor will appear to the circuit as a dead short. Thus, the _only_ thing limiting your current flow is the wire. Ohm's law states V equals IR. As the wire is only 0.001 ohms and the system is 12V, this means that when you connect that cap to your car battery it will ["try to"-j3h] draw 12000 amps. I don't think that's good for any part of your system.
The solution? Get a resistor and charge the cap through it. The resistor will limit the current flowing into the capacitor until it is fully charged. Then it is safe to connect as the potential between the capacitor and the battery will be 0VDC. A light bulb will work very well for this task, if you don't have any power resistors laying around. This will lengthen the life of both your battery and your capacitor. Also note that if you have a fuse between the battery and the cap, the surge current will blow the fuse without pre charging. If you have a switch or relay in between the cap and the battery, a pre charge circuit must be used as the surge current will weld the contacts closed. (I've seen it)
Answer 4Hi -Don't mind me but fortunately a car battery really can't put out 12,000 amps due to the limiting source impedance of the battery- You might get only a thousand amps at best !!!!(using thevian and norton theory)-OK this is still dangerous. OK like a lot dangerous but the internal resistance of the source, the battery its self is also a part of the equation- Dead shorting a battery is bad news- also you might consider the time constant to charge the cap !!! Tc= R times C (five usually required for full charge)
Answer 5
In each "Time constant" (T) the potential on the capacitor will increase .67 of the remaining way to the battery potential. If the limiting resister is large, this could take minutes, if small then milliseconds. You want a few seconds.
Yeah LIKE anybody can go out and buy one. 1 farad is very big to charge that thing, it will take forever if and one volt supplied from a one ohms source and 1 ohm 1 x 1 x 5 = 5 seconds. Now it is almost fully charged. Some people just don't pay attention to what they read I guess. How to connect it to the input a very Good short for a very long time at the output the same results
Answer 6
First of all I'm going to say all you have to do is make sure that you use thick oxygen free car audio wire. I did a reinstall the other day and someone had used 220v household cable to wire their amp! Who does that? that being said single -aught is going to be efficient enough for all of you 1 farad guys it's easy just make sure pos to pos and neg to neg and for goodness sake charge the thing before you use it. If you read up on this page somebody has already taken the time to explain the ohms law and how to blow up your battery so be careful.
Answer if it is a capacitor made for a car amp the have a circuit board on top so they will not instantly charge off the battery they will charge slowly till they are full on their own that's how they were designed.
Re; Answer 6. What on earth is "oxygen-free audio wire"? I have assembled a good deal of industrial electrical and electronic equipment over the years, much of it to tight quality-control specifications, and NEVER has that description appeared anywhere. And this is equipment needing better quality than in a hi-fi. Those peddling it have found a nifty way to charge over the odds for... plain, or perhaps tinned, copper wire. Yes, some copper is treated to remove any included oxygen but that is for heavy sheet and profile sections purely for welding, to prevent brittle welds: its electrical properties are not affected. It matters in some parts of an audio circuit that the leads are screened against interference, and the wire should be bright or tinned in connections because surface oxide will degrade the connection and may even introduce odd partial-rectification problems, but the notion that it has to be some magical "oxygen-free audio wire" is a myth and a con.
Careful not to exceed the Caps voltage rating. 1 farad caps typically are a low voltage device.
Large capacitors are used in car stereos, in the power supply leads.
This is done to stop fluctuations in the voltage supply.
The current drawn from the cars electrical system varies with volume (and thumping bass)
The massive current drawn can cause a voltage drop and affect the fidelity of the music.
A large capacitor can fill in the blanks, acting like a reservoir and keeping the voltage constant.
They are fitted across the power supply as close to the amplifier as possible. They are polarised, so check the wiring diagram that comes with the capacitor, to get it the right way around.
**** caution**** very much danger......on the cap there should be 2 terminals....+ and a - .....first thing is to undo the power supply the cap goins inline on the (+) side of the power supply and also hook the (-) to the ground inlined with the amp......do NOT EVER EVER EVER TOUCH OR ARC ACROSS THE CAPS TERMINALS....THIS CAN BURN UP THE CARS ELECTICAL SYSTEM AND OR KILL YOU BY STOPPING YOUR HEART.......SO HOOK THE CAP IN BEFORE YOU HOOK UP THE (+) POWER TO THE SYSTEM
Hook your speakers up to the amp.
well you hook it up
The capacitor charges up when you initially install it and apply 12 volts to the circuit. Its purpose is to smooth out power drops in the 12 volt supply line to the amp. For instance, when the bass hits the speakers, the amperage surge can exceed the amperage the line delivers for a split second, so the capacitor supplies amperage briefly to sustain the power. Hooking up a small motorcycle battery close to the amp serves the same purpose but is possibly messier because of the potential to leak acid.
either your amp has a short..... or.... you have a bad ground
Put the E.Q. between the pre amp and the main amp.
Connect your positive current running from your cars battery to the plus sign on the cap and the ground from your car to the negative ( note.. Cap must be charged befor installing read manuals to charge ) not cut two wires one for positive current and one for ground those wire are going to run from your cap to your amp....there you go now your battery and alternator will be given a break
First ground your amp and cap, amp has a ground slot usually and connect the caps negative terminal to a ground. then you take the power cord running from your battries positive terminal to the poitive terminal on the cap. also hook up a power cord running from your amps power input to the positive cap terminal
assuming you have an amp. run the hotwire from your battery directly to the POSOTIVE terminal of the cap. the run another wire from the POSOTIVE cap terminal to the amps power input( where the wire went before) and the run a third wire from the caps NEGATIVE terminal to the car body(as a ground) i have one in my car it wrks good for about 500 watts after that u need stronger cap. good luck
Try the related link:
Hook a switch up to the remote turn on and ground. Before the wiring for the amp.
hook a ground up to your battery and mount it to the amp and hook it up with a few more things and yea you got it man