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I have the same problem... the metal tabs have to be in the right spot and you should be able to just pop it back on. I know on the bottom there is a hole where you need to pop it in on the bottom (on the rear). I just lost a flare on the road tonight so I have to order some more... :(
Yes. The bed of a pickup truck is a separate structure. It can be unbolted and changed like a fender or a bumper.
Pretty easy, there are holes inside and in the back of the flare that match up with holes in the steel fender, mounting hardware is screws from inside the fender to plastic nuts inside the flare, but any nut and bolt that will fit through the hole will work, you may need washers on the flare side though.
A fender flare is the rubber sheet installed just above a wheel to prevent mud and water from splashing into the underside components of a vehicle or around the sides of the vehicles onto passersby.
Double sided tape Sheet metal screws Pop-Rivets Yes, I've had the same problem with my 2000 Sport. I just got them to go tight against the body last week. Locate the 5 or 6 bolts just inside the fenderwell. Spray them with penetrating oil! Wait a few minutes then use a deep, metric socket to unscrew nuts. Some bolts might have flare keepers. Pull them off first. Watch out, their sharp. After backing off nuts a little, fit fender in between brackets and body of jeep aligning tabs on fender to tabs on brackets. Tighten nuts and slip those flare keepers back on-if any.
Bushwacker offers the following five flare styles; Street Style, OE Style, Extend-A-Fender, Pocket Style, and Cut-Out. You pick the style you want and then the make and model of the vehicle.
== == == == == == == == == == yea it happened to my 98 the only thing i found was to take it to a body shop and have them order ans install a new one, because no matter how hard you try that fender flare is not going back on. trust me i tried for a long time to get it back on. That drove me absolutely crazy!i also have a 2000 classic,my right rear fender did the same thing after trying several ideas to no sucess my boyfriend put a screw in it then bondo! i was not happy to say the least! Yes, I've had the same problem with my 2000 Sport. I just got them to go tight against the body last week. Locate the 5 or 6 bolts just inside the fenderwell. Spray them with penetrating oil! Wait a few minutes then use a deep, metric socket to unscrew nuts. Some bolts might have flare keepers. Pull them off first. Watch out, their sharp. After backing off nuts a little, fit fender in between brackets and body of jeep aligning tabs on fender to tabs on brackets. Tighten nuts and slip those flare keepers back on-if any. That happened on my 99'. its a pain to get back on but if you bend the metal bracket that holds the fender on to the right depth between it and the fender itself the fender will slide back into place but you have to do it all at one time or it wont go on right.
Look inside the wheelhouse you'll see plastic rivits holding the flare. Cut the heads off them. The rivits are a one time use. Then reach you hand into then bumper. There should be 3 clips going from flare into the cover. Squeeze them to release them from cover. Now you should only have the plastic clips holding the flare to the metal 1/4 panal. I would just pull hard to remove it, and replace the clips. But you can try to use a small pick to release the clips from their sides, if you need to try to save the clips. But even the pros still break a few...
Fender flares on most vehicles, including the 2003 Jeep Liberty, are held together by pop rivets. Some vehicles might use a rivet that can be turned with a special square-tip screwdriver to remove it.
NO, they should not fit at all, but there are a lot of aftermarket places that will sell awesome looking flare kits that look every bit as good, and fit.
AP Flare = Atmospheric Pressure Flare
If it is leaking at a fitting, it is either a bad flare or it isn't tight enough. Gas or flare fittings should be put together dry, Do no use pipe dope because this can cause a leak between the mating surfaces. If it is in the line itself, either replace the line or cut it, flare the ends and put a fitting in.