If the light is really old or been subject to chemical abuse by the pool water then you will probably have to replace the light. If the light is in good shape you can get a screw extractor from the hardware store just be careful not to strip the threads out!
7, The 9 - 15 balls are striped.
Turn of the breaker to the light. Drain the pool (at least below the light). Unseal the light. Remove and replace the bulb. Re-seal the light (replace the gasket if the mfr recommends this). Turn on the breaker and check the light for function. Fill the pool. Check the light for leaks. Piece of cake, actually. It just takes a while to do. Don't forget to check the pool chemistry after filling it!
First I will assume that we are talking about an in ground swimming pool. Here are the steps you want to take to change a bulb. Remember you do not have to drain the pool to do this unless the pool light has to be changed and the water is very cold, even in this case you would only drain to the bottom or the light. So are you ready here we go: 1-Remove the screw at the top of the light. If you have a vinyl liner pool there will be an outer ring behind the face ring of the actual light. DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THESE SCREWS. Once the screw is loose the light should want to float up and out of the niche in the side of the wall of the pool. If it does not then the light may be full of water, this is not a good thing, you will have to pick the light up off the hook on the bottom of the niche to remove it. 2-There should be enough cord to take the light and set it on the deck of the pool. If there isn't enough cord then the light was install incorrectly and you will either have to drain the pool to replace the bulb or you will need to replace the whole light this time making sure you have enough cord to set the light on the deck when you remove it. If the light is full of water inspect the fixture carefully to make sure it does not have holes if it does you will need to replace the whole light. If you see no holes then remove the light lens (each light is different but it should be self evident how to remove the lens from the light body) and inspect the lens gasket for failure. We always recommend installing a new light lens gasket when you change the bulb. If you had water inside the light and you can find no evidence of how the water got into the light then we recommend replacing the light for safety reasons. Once the lens off you can unscrew the light bulb be very careful when you grab the bulb we recommend you use a rag or a leather glove in case the bulb breaks while trying to unscrew the bulb from the fixture. If you have a halogen bulb it will just unplug. 3-Install the new bulb and new lens gasket and reassemble the light lens to the light body. 4-Now the fun begins you have a buoyant submarine that you have to put back in a hole in the wall it will be a little bit of a battle but with some practice you will have it in the niche and tighten the screw so it is in securely. 5-Clear anyone from the pool no hands or feet should be in contact with the water. Then turn the light on if the ground fault or circuit breaker trips then you have a short somewhere you will need either an electrician or you may need to replace the whole light fixture. In this situation we recommend an electrician who may tell you to replace the light but in this case better safe than sorry! == In the above: You failed to state to be sure to turn off the power and the circuit breaker. You also failed to tell them to inspect the fixture and cord for damage, age, corrosion. You also failed to state that any work on a pool light would require that person or a qualified electrician to update the system per codes and install a GFCI. You also negleted to state that an old fixture will not have the socket set in an epoxy shell. If this is the case the entire fixture should be replaced. My light does not have a screw in the metal ring around the bulb, or a hole for one. It seems to be on a hinge at the top. I can't get the bottom to stay in. There is at least 1 pin on the side of the metal ring that keeps coming out and the ring with the light shifts inside the housing with all the screws around it. The housing seems ok. Right now it's in, but if you touch the light it comes partially apart, mainly popping out at the bottom.
You do not need to remove it.
Step 1: Material and tool prepare. 1, A inground pool led light, it can be white or color change, if you have any query to choose led pool light. Read the article How to choose a inground pool led lights 2, A lens gasket replacement kit and a pilot screw, it must same type as your pool light fixture.Most pool light fixture are from Pentair and Hayward. With the light fixture series NO, You can find suitable gasket and screw online shop or your local shop. Usually online shop is cheaper. 3,A dry towel 4,Two screwdriver,one flat and one Philips. Step 2: Turn off all pool electricity Very important; before next steps, you must cut off all the pool power. You can find the square electrical box near the pool,Some pool has two box,one is transformer which transfer 120V to 12V. You need shut off the electrical box button not the transformer. When you shut off power. It's better to make sure power is off. You can test via switch on the pool light and see whether it can light up. Step 3: Get the light housing out. It might be two scenarios, the light fixture on the poolside wall which very easy to reach with your hand, Just lean over unscrew the screw, then get the housing out. or the light fixture install at the bottom of the pool, you need jump in water to take out. Step 4:Open the light fixture niche Use the Philips screwdriver unscrew the niche clip screw, the one with a stainless circle.Different housing have different clip and clip screws.Some old light fixture might have several this type clips need unscrew. Or some type need use wrench to unscrew the screw Step 4: Open the cover Use the flat screwdriver to prize up the cover and gasket. Step 5: Screw out the light bulb Step 6: Clean the niche inside, make it clean and dry Step 7: Put the led light bulb in niche. Step 8: Turn on the power test the light If your inground pool led lights is multicolor ,test the switch control or remote control. Then turn off the power again. Step 9: Change the gasket and clean the cover . Step 10: Reassembling the light fixture and put back in pool. Before screw it on pool wall. It is better put the light fixture in water several minutes to test whether will leak water inside the niche. For more image guide you can visit the post homelightpro dot com
To remove the light bulb from an underwater light fixture, first ensure the power is turned off. Then, carefully unscrew the bulb from its socket in a counterclockwise direction. Once the bulb is removed, dispose of it properly and insert a new bulb if needed.
I had a certified electrician remove light cut all the the wires and remove all wiring back up to the breaker box, then I had my pool guy put the whole light, burned out bulb and all back, into the niche, the way niche was made the screw hole did not have a hole at the end of the screw, in other words the screw itself sealed the hole. The light is no longer usable, but I don't have an unsightly hole there either and do not have to worry about someone being electrocuted by faulty light. (When the copper plate holding the seal around the hole was removed, it broke into. I went to the lumber yard bought a shiny piece of galavanized metal, had it cut the exact shape as the copper plate with screw holes and all had my pool guy install it instead of the copper plate, lot cheaper than buying the copper plate at a swim supply store) Then I bought a solar powered light, no electricity at all to the pool, turn it on when I want a lighted night swim, and walla my pool can still be lit at night. Works for me so far. P.S. after I did all that I was told that I could have just had the shiny piece of galvanized metal cut the same as the copper seal except not cut out the inside hole where light goes, and would not have had to put the light back in niche. I prefer it the way we did it. AND:: I bet you have a huge rust mark streaming down your pool walls from the galvanized metal! The copper plate probably broke in two because the water had been out of balance and very acidic. Would it not have been better to have used stainless steel. The screw alone would not have sealed the hole either. Water is supposed to get to the back of the light fixture for cooling purposes.
I had a certified electrician remove light cut all the the wires and remove all wiring back up to the breaker box, then I had my pool guy put the whole light, burned out bulb and all back, into the niche, the way niche was made the screw hole did not have a hole at the end of the screw, in other words the screw itself sealed the hole. The light is no longer usable, but I don't have an unsightly hole there either and do not have to worry about someone being electrocuted by faulty light. (When the copper plate holding the seal around the hole was removed, it broke into. I went to the lumber yard bought a shiny piece of galavanized metal, had it cut the exact shape as the copper plate with screw holes and all had my pool guy install it instead of the copper plate, lot cheaper than buying the copper plate at a swim supply store) Then I bought a solar powered light, no electricity at all to the pool, turn it on when I want a lighted night swim, and walla my pool can still be lit at night. Works for me so far. P.S. after I did all that I was told that I could have just had the shiny piece of galvanized metal cut the same as the copper seal except not cut out the inside hole where light goes, and would not have had to put the light back in niche. I prefer it the way we did it. AND:: I bet you have a huge rust mark streaming down your pool walls from the galvanized metal! The copper plate probably broke in two because the water had been out of balance and very acidic. Would it not have been better to have used stainless steel. The screw alone would not have sealed the hole either. Water is supposed to get to the back of the light fixture for cooling purposes.
A light acid wash should remove the chalk.
We need a few more details, but I can make a few assumptions. If this is an in-ground pool, and you have a standard pool light that is mounted in a niche that was installed in the sidewall of the pool, and you are replacing the bulb, then you should do the following: First and foremost, turn off the breaker switch that supplies the current to the pool light. On the rim around the light, you should find a screw (usually at the top of the trim ring) - unscrew this screw and the fixture should tilt out of the niche and literally float to the surface of the pool (there should be enough electric cable to allow the fixture to float up and be placed on the pool deck). Depending on the fixture model, you will now need to remove the glass - some will have several screws on the back side that screw into the trim ring, and some may have a clamp that incorporates the glass lense and clamps around the fixture. Both will involve a rubber seal, and it is a good idea to replace this seal at the same time the bulb is replaced - many pool supply shops or on-line stores will have this seal available, and if you have the model number of the fixture, it should be easy to locate. Once you open the fixture, inspect for any signs of water intrusion - this is possible if the seal has hardened. Remove the bulb, and inspect the socket for any corrosion - clean as necessary. Replace the bulb, install the new seal, tighten the seal clamp or the rear clamp ring to make sure the fixture is water tight. You could turn the power on the lamp BUT only for a second to make sure the lamp is good and rule out any issues with the fixture - IMPORTANT - Pool lamps should only be operated when installed in the pool to prevent heat build-up. If all is good, turn off the power at the circuit breaker; place the fixture back in the pool, loosely coil the excess power cable around the fixture, and install the fixture back into the niche. Line up any tabs that secure the fixture in the niche, and tighten the mounting screw. Turn on power, and test.
Sand blasting is not the answer to a good prep for a replaster job