Trouble code P1167 means: Gauge control module lost communication with HUD Module (HUD message)
Trouble code P1167 means: Gauge control module lost communication with HUD Module (HUD message)
The code P1167 means ... Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction ... which in turn means that the O2 sensor near the CAT either needs a clean or replacing.
o2 sensor My list shows P1167 Invalid Test,throttle not depressed
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Applied to : 2000-2002 Maxima P1167 (Bank 2) Ho2S2 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring) Replace Oxygen Sensor... Check out this site..http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/Nissan/2002/NTB02-051.htm
A system malfunction in the Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) heater circuit.The cause can be a loose wire or a defective Primary Oxygen Sensor
This means that one of the oxygen sensor is having problems. In Honda CRV there are two O2 sensors. Typically OEM Sensor and replacement may costs from 300 to 400$. However, when you get Emission check light, it basically tells you that Emissions are either rich or lean of fuel in exhaust. On board Computer tries to burn the fuel (14.7 part Air to 1 part fuel) optimally to reduce polution and achieve highest efficientcy. O2 attached in the exhaust system senses and send the feedback to computer continuosly. Before you rush to dealer and they rip you off, you can do several things : - Check your Gas Tank cap. Loose gas tank is primary cause for this first time. Tighten the cap. Take about 2 to 3 trips or 20 to 40 miles. There is a good chance that this check will go away if loose cap was the isssue. - Disconnect the battery cables and let the reset occur ( 10 to 15 min). If may clear the light - If comes back on again, remember when did you change the Air filter ? Change it. $15 Air filter may save to you couple of hundred $$ - Remeber when you replaced the battery. The sensor is fed battery voltage for measurement. If the battery is older than four to five years, I would suggest to change the battery so any reduction in standard 12V+ is not causing this wrong reading from sensor - O2 Sensors operate at very high temperature and very sensitive. If you dare go underneath you car, you can easily spot two O2 sensors, try to see if there is cable connection problems by pressing the connectors. - If you dare, you buy the sensor1 or sensor2 depending on code p1166 or p1167 and try to change it yourself. Be careful with the new sensor installation and do to use any anti-seize or wd40, it may ruin them - Or go to Dealer, go with your research on the price of the sensor. For dealer it may take 10 mins to change the sensor so be careful not to overpay the labor. Unless they put extra effort to determine the sensor is not the problem. - Always ask for defective part from the dealer. Some sneaky guys re-sale them to aftermarket when it may be okay in your car, and they change them anyway. - You can test the O2 sensor yourself on the bench or in the car but that require extra skills, time and tools. You may try this > Oxygen Sensor Information http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm
The code reading will be P1166 or P1167 for the primay "upper" oxygen sensor. It is recommended that both of these sensors be replaced every 100,000 miles even if there is no check engine light. There are two oxygens sensors on the 2002 Honda Accord as well as other years of this make of Honda. The "primary" oxygen sensor the (upper sensor, or the "upstream" sensor) is located under the hood in the exhaust manifold right on the front of the engine. It is easy to see and to reach. It is also usually easily removed. However, you may need to use a special wrench to remove either upper or lower sensor. I don't recommend trying to remove the sensors with a Cresent wrench. Most auto parts stores sell two kinds of O2 sensor removal wrenches. They cost around $10.00 for either kind. One type is a deep well socket with a slot cut up one side so the wire can come out. I don't particularly like this tool because it tends to open (spread) when you apply torque at the end that goes on the sensor. It has a tendency to slip and it may round off the corners of the sensor. If that happens you are in real trouble. I recommend a long, heavy duty 7/8" box wrench, with a slot cut in the box so you can get it on the sensor without cutting the wire connector. I choose not to use any type of penetrating oil when removing the sensors because it is reccommened that the tip of the sensor should never come in contact with any oil (even the oil on your fingers) So be extremely careful not to touch the end of the sensor. The sensors come with a plastic cover to protect the sensor from contact. Only remove this when you are ready to install it. DO NOT OIL OR GREASE THE THREADS. The lower sensor, sometimes called the "downstream" sensor is located in the catalytic converter, so it's a little more difficult to get to because it's on the underside of the car. You will probable need to raise the car on some safety stands to reach it comfortably. The catalytic converter resembles a muffler, but it is in front of the actual muffler. The catalytic converter will be slightly toward the passenger side of the vehicle. The sensor will be on your right side of the catalytic converter if you are looking at it from under the car and your head is toward the front of the car. It resembles the the upper sensor, if that helps you spot it. This one is sometimes very difficult to remove. You may have to put some support (blocks of wood, etc. ) under the catalytic converter so you can pull down hard on the wrench without pulling down hard on the catalytic converter and the exhaust system. After replacing the sensor/sensors take the vehicle to the nearest parts house that will reset the "check engine" light for free. Preferably the parts store that sold you the sensors. so if the light doesn't reset they may have sold you a defective sensor. I would take my 7/8" sensor wrench with me just in case. Any member feel free to edit and correct this answer if necessary.