A blade cuts the twine as it finishes wrapping
The IH Mccormick 50, 55, and 45 balers all had twine boxes on the sides of chute on the rear of the baler.
Twine comes out of the twine box, through the tensioner, through a couple of ceramic rings then 1 piece of twine through each needle eye. Once through the needle eye it goes back along the chamber floor and tie it off to something sturdy. The baler will thread the twine into the knotters at the first cycle. A common problem on old balers is the needle eyes have grooves warn in them. You should use a round file to file out the groove so the twine has a smooth surface to run over. A rough surface will cut the twine.
I have a model 12 MF baler, and I use the plastic twine all the time with no problems. Don in Oregon
run the twine through the eyelets and through the needles , which are the large arms that rise up . take that twine and tie to the rear of the baler,both of them and run them where the bale forms. next trip the wheel that ties the bale, and turn the baler by hand for one cycle. the twine will be tied now cut the excess twine that u tied to the rear of the baler from the needles and you are ready to bale .
hay is picked up by a the pickup tines, then pushed perpendicularly by a "fork". it is then compacted into slabs by the plunger and tied with twine by the knotters. the bale then comes out the back of the baler.
Run the twine out of the twine box and through the guide next to the needle. Then run the twine through the needles and tie it off somewhere. When the knotter trips, it will inject the twine into the knotters and it will be threaded. If your baler has been sitting for awhile, it might take a few cycles for it to start knotting properly due to rust. for starters if it's a wire baler it doesn't have twine or knotters; it has wire and twisters. but it's true you thread it through the guide holes in balewire box, down through the sheaves, up over sheaves just before the needles and across the top of the needles then tie it off to the brace just like a twine baler. be careful, make sure it's centered over the top of the needles. after it makes a cycle you should be able to see if it picked up the wire and has held it in twisting grippers. it is held in these until the wire goes around the bale, then it should twisted and cut. make sure sheaves that wire goes through are lubricated with wd40 or something similar. i bought my 532 about five years ago and it does a good job. i think you can still get a manual for this baler from your ford ag dealer.
All I know for sure is our 24T uses 9000' rolls. One source of twine I uses is Tractor Supply Company...see the related link...
THREADING THE TYING MECHANISM for a McCormick No. 46 Baler Open the door on the twine chest and place balls of twine in twine containers. There is room for 4 balls, 2 for each side. From left to right, as you look from the back of the baler, they will be referred to as balls D, C, B & A. Connect the inside end of ball "A" to the outside end of ball "B" connecting the two balls of twine in the right twine container. Connect the inside end of ball "C" to the outside end of ball "D" connecting the two balls of twine in the left twine container. If twine is taken from the wrong end of a ball, it will twist and snarl in the tying mechanism. Join the twine ends with a firm square knot. Trim the loose ends about one-half inch from the knot and you're ready to thread the tying mechanism. Make sure the needles are in their extreme rearward position. If they are not, turn the flywheel and power take-off drive by hand until the needles reach the extreme position of their rearward stroke Thread the twine from the inside of ball "B" through the grommet in the right partition and the center guide in the top of the left compartment of the twine chest. Thread the twine from the inside of ball "D" through the lower guide in the left compartment of the twine chest. Thread the twine balls "B" and "D" through the grommet in the left partition of the twine chest. Thread the twine between the pressure plates of the twine tension device and through the grommet in the bottom of the twine chest. Run the twine through the twine guide on the needle tie pipe and through the three twine guides underneath the bale chamber. The twine from the right twine container furnishes twine for the right needle and the twine from the left twine container furnishes twine for the left needle. Thread the ends of the twine through the holes of the needle head. Pull these two twine ends up through the bale chamber. Operate the baler slowly under power. Hold the twine as shown in Illust. llA (I tie it off to something near the back of the baler). Trip the clutch, and let the tying mechanism go through a cycle. Strip the single knots off the knotter hooks to complete the threading operation. Operate the tying mechanism several times at rated engine speed to be sure it is working smoothly. Hold the twine by hand each time to prevent the twine from fouling in the knotters.
An input area, a compression chamber, hydraulic arms or rams, wheels, hydraulic cylinders, and tying mechanisms are all common industrial baler components (twine, rope, netting, wire, strapping, etc.).
Threading the WirePlace a box of twine or wire in each of the two holding brackets at the rear of the baler. Remove the cardboard discs in the center of each box and locate the end of the twine or wire on the inside of the coil.2Pass the end of the twine or wire from the right-hand box through the ceramic spool on the right-hand side of the ejection chute.3Pass the end of the twine or wire into the bottom opening of the right-hand threading needle. Pull the twine or wire out through the top of the needle.4Pull the twine or wire taut and tie it securely to the eyebolt, just ahead of the right-hand threading needle.5Repeat the procedure for the left-hand threading needle.If the twine or wire snaps when you engage the baler, you may have gotten the loose end from the outside of the coil instead of the inside. Check to ensure that the end of the twine or wire does not pass under or into the coil inside the box.- If the wire snaps, you started the wrong end from the box of wire. Pay attention to the "Start this end" tag.
fisrt you need to get a ford baler I recomend looking at aution fliers in the Midwest [much more time comsumeing then eBay] If this step takes long enough you may never have to make hay just keep going to auctions. Once you have the baler you will need to have a tractor to power it I recomend inheriting one from your gampa or pa if this is not possible you will probably have to borrow one, as a last resort buy one . Next make sure you have twine loaded in the twine bin wich is located at the rear of the baler [the door that opens up] you will need two bales rolls of twine one for each side of the bale. As you stand behind this compartment look to the lower left side you will see two clamps held in place with a wingnut over a tensioner spring behind this is the hole the twine goes thru loop the twine thru the loosened tensioner and let it fall through the hole so it hangs below the compartment towards the ground. At this point it helps to have a partner I recomend having one of your children help you, that way they will know how to thread a ford baler it will also give them the chance to increase their vocbulary of words not to us in school. If you don't have a helper don't give up! Crawl under the baler [wait] befor you can finish this the baler has to be hooked up to the tractor draw bar and the PTO shaft needs to be hooked up be sure all guards are in place. Now slide gently under the twine compartment to where you have pushed the twine thru the hole pull out 3 or 4 feet of twine you partner at this time should make sure the twine doesn,t tangle uo in the compartment front hole is for left side of bale rear whole is for right side , also when you put the spools of twine in be sure the twine spools out the center and up thru the top of the spool. If as you lay under the baler pulling out the twine thru these holes it should come out freely if it doesn,t tell the kid to give you some slack. Now as you look to the left side of the baler you will see two arch shaped thick pieces of steel called the needles depending on wich part of the rotation the baler stoped moveing at you mabe able to see the front part of them for as the baler cycles they will come all the way free of the bottom of the baler if you can see the front of the needles you will notice a hole in the front of each if the front of the needles are not visible you will need to cycle the baler by turning the flywheel do this manualy and have the kid watch and tell you when the front of the needles come free of the bottom of the baler now thread the twine thru the whole in the front of the needles left twine for left side right for right pull several feet of twine thru and let it lay on the ground, Now if you don't have a windrow of hay ready to bale this process cannot be completed if you do however you may tighten up the wingnuts over the tensioner springs until the twine pulls free but without free spooling it does need some tension. The baler now needs to be brought up to the windrow of hay and engauged let it start making a bale the first one wont tie but it will bring the twine up to the knotter wich are on top of the bale compressing area opposite the bottom where the needles are basically at this point if all is working correctly the second bale will tie perfectly as the needles feed the twine the knotters wich self feed . Then you are done if the second bale doent tie sqirt some wd40 on the knotters and adjust the bale knotter timing so you are making very small bales and run thru a fairly good piece of windrow even if it doesnt tie correctly rite away keep going for a while it may loosen up a stuck knotter and start working . be sure you gease all the zerk before you start