You need to know if it's got ABS front brakes or not...however, the ABS CV joint will work on the non-abs vehicle. Remove the wheel, brake caliper & strut mount. Unbolt whatever needs to be unbolted to swing the the spindle out to allow the shaft to be pulled. Near the transmission there is a locking collar..if I recall...this must be loosened / removed too. The CV shaft pulls straight out, but may take sume pursuding...look at the replacement & you will see. It wasn't that tough, but you need all the standard tools for front-end work..
for the driver's side- take the wheel off, cotter pin out and remove axle nut ( i used a 36 mm socket ) take off the three nuts on the bottom of the control arm ( that's right below the rotor 17 mm) now the suspension will swing away as you pull the axle out of the wheel housing. next just use a pry bar between the axle and the tranny and should pop right out. still having trouble with the passenger side. it's the same but it has a bearing bolted in place for support because it's longer. you have to somehow persuade it out of place after you remove the bolts ( which are 12 mm )
passenger side is a nightmare, probably better to go to shop, there are 3 bolts holding a center bearing that need to be removed, i think possibly with a slide hammer and three same thread metric bolts about 5 to 6 inches long may be the way to extract shaft. I ll try next week. I believe villager was assembled without lubricant and surfaces after 10years cold welded and make task much more impossible. outside joint was difficult also
CV joints are nasty to replace even when you know what you are doing. So, to all those with CV joint questions, Any year, any vehicle, any make,...... it is easier and usually cheaper to replace the whole axle. As to the question of how to replace, buy a good repair manual with pictures. The procedure would take as long to type as it takes to do it.
If you are changing the entire axle and not just the cv joint, the simple explanation is, remove the tire, take off the break assembly like you are changing the break pads and move it to the side supporting the weight off of the break line.
Next remove the bolt behind the strut that holds the strut to the hub. Then remove the bolt holding the hub to the ball joint. Remove the bolt on the end of the axle (on 99 and up cougars the original nut is a series of 5 thin nuts tied together, kinda stupid really). Separate the Ball joint and strut from the hub being careful not to ruin the ball joint or tie rod. Swing the hub out of the way and remove the axle end from the hub in the process (you will need a hammer).
when the axle is fully removed support the hub weight off of the tie rod with a block. the axle is now only held in by the transmission. to remove the axle from the trans, place a screwdriver or pry bar behind the axle and in front of the trans housing and push. the axle will pull out of the trans with some effort (it is not bolted in or anything, its held in by a circular clip you can see it on the new axle if you have it in front of you. The axle is now free to be replaced. to install just reverse the process. when tightening the new axle nut, make it snug but not too tight or you will crush the bearings in the hub. home this helps..
Take neg. lead off battery. Chock rear wheels. Or use certified lift. Jack on Pinch Weld drivers side. Use proper jack stand to brace the D.F. of the vehicle. Jack must be high enough to lift the tire off the ground. DONT NOT PUT THE JACK STAND UNDER THE CONTROL ARM!!! USE PINCH WELDS OR FRAME. PRIOR to, LOOSEN lug nuts first ( NOT ALL THE WAY JUST LOOSE.), then raise the tire off the ground and remove the lugs and set aside.
There are quick and faster ways to remove the front drivers axle.
Step 1.
Remove the DF Caliper and Carrier. 4 bolts on rear of caliper and carrier. Do not remove carrier bolts all the way. ( Re-grease carrier pin bolts on installation )
( Caution )Set caliper off to the side without putting tension on the rubber brake line
Step 2.
Remove Cotter pin and disgard. ( Install new cotter pin on intsallation )
Remove crown nut and set aside.
Remove axle bolt and set aside.
Remove lower ball joint cotter pin and disgard ( Use new ball joint cotter pin on installation )
Using a proper ball joint splitter and a hammer, place the wedge fork tool in between lower control arm and ball joint and hammer ( pop ) the joint out of socket. You can also use a large hammer to hit the side of the steering knuckle to try to pop the ball joint loose. ( DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT ITS SELF!!! ) You also can use a tourch to heat the side of the ball joint and steering knuckle HAMMER its while its red hot almost to try to brake them loose.*) Do not recommend if you do not have mechanical experience!!1 YOU CAN GET HURT SERIOUSLY BAD!!!!It is not repairable, you should replace the instrument cluster.
There is no such part on a Mercury Villager.
You have to remove the instrument cluster to get access to the bulbs.
yes!
The converter assembly is a bolt on part, or you can cut out and weld in generic units to replace the existing ones.
There is no cabin air filter on a 1995 Villager.
If you need to ask how to replace a fuse, you need to step away from the car and never touch it again.
Yes, it should fit.
No, there is no "adjustment".
Buy a manual.
134-a
Drop the tank, undo the ring on top and pull it out. How and where is the fuel pump on 1995 villager? Do I need to drop the fuel tank when I replace the fuel pump? Pls help me get answers? How and where is the fuel pump on 1995 villager? Do I need to drop the fuel tank when I replace the fuel pump? Pls help me get answers?