There should be a screw on the side of the jack--remove and fill until oil runs out of this screw. Make sure that the "ram" is fully retracted into the body of the jack
For the rear light assemblies there is one screw. Open the hatchback and on the inside top edge of the assembly, remove the one Philips head screw. You will also see a couple of slots next to the body. Stick a flat blade screw driver into these slots between the body and the light assembly and pry out on the assembly. It will pop out from the body.
open the doors and look on the body for a black cap that covers a screw. remove screw and The tailight assembly comes out. Then you have to unscrew the next cover on the back of the lens to get to the bulb.
1. Drain the coolant by opening the drain cock or removing the lower radiator hose. Remove the lid to speed up process 2. Remove the throttle body ccover on turbo cars 3. Remove the bypass hose and the pressure pipe between the Intercooler and the throttle body on turbo cars 4. Rempve the screw that holds the coolant pipe to the water pump 5. Remove the screw that holds the coolant pipe in the front left of the engine 6. Remove the hose to the throttle body pre-heater 7. Remove the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat 8. Refit in Reverse source: saabcentral.com
There's most likely a bad ground in the harness going to the headlight. It's probably a black wire, going to a large screw or bolt on the fender or radiator support. If the wire isn't broken, remove the screw/bolt holding the ground lug to the body. Clean any contact points with a wire brush and reassemble.
All of the food that you eat can not be used by your body. You must somehow remove it. Your lower digestive tract, the colon (fiber), kidneys (urea and uric acid) and lungs (CO2) remove these. What is called feces is what is unusable and removed from the colon.
Remove the pan from the transmission. You will have to drop the valve body. The solenoids are on top of the valve body. Unplug it and screw it out. Be careful the gaskets for the valve body are very brittle and will break easily.
There is a screw at the tail light that you can see by looking at it . Remove the screw and the tail light comes out by tilting it away from the body toward you, giving you access to the bulbs. Hint after you back the screw out all the way,push the screw in a little and use it as grasp the assembly( leverage) to pull the assembly away from the body. The gasket causes it to stick a little. Takes about 30 seconds to get out
You remove the handle then unscrew main interior body of the faucet. You will now see a small screw on the inner end of the stem holding the washer. Remove this screw and refit the same size washer (there are dozens of sizes, you may have to get an assorted bag of washer from the store, -only about $3-4)
open the door, remove door trim and the torque screw holding the strap to body, and two nuts holding strap to door and remove door stop from inside door
Located at the rear jamb about half way up on each door. One Phillips screw attaches it to the body. Remove screw and pull wire out and unplug the wire connector. Replace with new button switch and screw back in place on the jamb.
- If there is any part of it that is sticking out, try to get a bite on it with a pair of vise grips an turn it out. - If it is broke flush, drill it out or counter sink it and putty over it. - Use a dremel with a small wheel to cut a groove across the top that you can see. Then use a flatblade screwdriver to unscrew it. - If the diameter is large enough, drill a hole in the screw and insert a screw extractor which you turn with a wrench. - Tighten the chuck of the drill around the remaining portion of the broken or stripped out screw then put the drill in reverse. Works every time There is no easy way around this: purchase a steel 1/4 diameter hole punch from your local Hardware store-- Center the hole punch directly over the screw-body and start knocking the thread-body repeatedly until the hole punch clears all the way through to the other side and then use a vice-grip or a regular pliers to spin and loosen the hole punch for easy removal. Be cautious to maintain the hole punch as straight as possible to keep the punch from veering off of your center point of the thread-body. As an amateur wood worker, I don't understand how you could drive a hole punch through who knows how much wood without busting a big hole on the other side. Assuming you mean it is 1 inch in length (screw & bolts are sized by diameter): any screw that is tight enough to break off the factory head probably will not come out if you cut your own slot and is too small to drill out as suggested above. I like the drill idea. If if is broken flush, use a plug cutter to remove a circle of wood around the screw about 1/2" deep. Chisel out the remaining wood holding on to the screw. Use the plug cutter to make a plug from the same kind of wood and try to match the grain. Plug your hole and start again. Always drill a pilot hole suitable for the diameter and material of the screw to prevent breakage. Brass requires a larger hole than steel.