Depending on the glass surface, you can keep it moist with some turpentine and let it soak in, or try vegetable oil or even orange juice if you are worried about adjoining finished surfaces (painted or stained). Any of these methods you will need to let soak in for some time, possibly an hour or overnight. A straight-edged razor blade works well on flat (window) glass.
Linseed oil is made from the dried ripe seed of the flax plant. :-)
Honestly I don't think you CAN get linseed oil off of anything. I know people who have found dried linseed oil paint in their hair 2 months (and dozens of showers) after leaving a jobsite. Linseed oil does one thing very well- it permeates and infiltrates most any surface it comes into contact- that is why it is such a good preservative for wood, masonry and even metal. Getting it off your skin is tough enough using paint thinners, turpentine, etc, and really you're just diluting it (oh, and it's being partially absorbed into your skin too).
Denatured alchohol will remove the dried linseed oil from metal, just don't get it on any wood.
Honestly I don't think you CAN get linseed oil off of anything. I know people who have found dried linseed oil paint in their hair 2 months (and dozens of showers) after leaving a jobsite. Linseed oil does one thing very well- it permiates and infiltrates most any surface it comes into contact- that is why it is such a good preservative for wood, masonry and even metal. Geting it off your skin is tough enough using paint thinners, turpentine, etc, and really you're just diluting it (oh, and it's being partially absorbed into your skin too).
Honestly I don't think you CAN get linseed oil off of anything. I know people who have found dried linseed oil paint in their hair 2 months (and dozens of showers) after leaving a jobsite. Linseed oil does one thing very well- it permiates and infiltrates most any surface it comes into contact- that is why it is such a good preservative for wood, masonry and even metal. Geting it off your skin is tough enough using paint thinners, turpentine, etc, and really you're just diluting it (oh, and it's being partially absorbed into your skin too).
Honestly I don't think you CAN get linseed oil off of anything. I know people who have found dried linseed oil paint in their hair 2 months (and dozens of showers) after leaving a jobsite. Linseed oil does one thing very well- it permeates and infiltrates most any surface it comes into contact- that is why it is such a good preservative for wood, masonry and even metal. Getting it off your skin is tough enough using paint thinners, turpentine, etc, and really you're just diluting it (oh, and it's being partially absorbed into your skin too).
Honestly I don't think you CAN get linseed oil off of anything. I know people who have found dried linseed oil paint in their hair 2 months (and dozens of showers) after leaving a jobsite. Linseed oil does one thing very well- it permiates and infiltrates most any surface it comes into contact- that is why it is such a good preservative for wood, masonry and even metal. Geting it off your skin is tough enough using paint thinners, turpentine, etc, and really you're just diluting it (oh, and it's being partially absorbed into your skin too).
why i linseed oil not used on oil stones
No, linseed oil is not a saturated fat; it is a polyunsaturated oil.
Double boiled linseed oil contains extra chemical additives that boiled linseed oil does not have. These chemical are added to help with the drying process.
We use linseed oil because it soaks into the the bat and makes it moist and knocking in becomes much easier but make sure to use raw linseed oil and not boiled linseed oil. The bat does not soak boiled linseed oil. Raw linseed oil not only increases the life of the bat but also makes the performance of the bat better.
Linseed oil does not damage paint. Linseed oil is used along with turpentine in oil paints as a type of paint thinner. Linseed oil extends the life of oil paint, makes it easier to thin out, control the paint and paint layers.