you should use oil based paint for the shelf portion of cabinets. i made the same mistake.
I don't know how envolved you want to get but, your problem is the plastic will flex and the paint will chip and peel, you need two (2) things, a bonding agent (to make the paint stick to the plastic) and a flex agent (to make the paint stretch). you can get these at a automotive paint store. Its a little envolved but I have never had a problem with peeling or chipping paint on plastic. NOTE: Car bumpers are painted this way. OOP'S, Enamel paint is just fine
the continental shelf-edge or shelf-break
Shelf is a noun.
The finish achieved with paint can be affected by: * Temperature as it is painted and dries - too cold and it may go "chalky" or not dry properly, too hot and the thickness of the paint may be affected, or brush marks may be more obvious. * Surface preparation - a variable surface will give a variable finish. Check for a clean, dry and even surface free of loose material like dust or flakes. * Paint age - Has the paint been on the shelf a long time, or got to hot or cold at some point? * Paint mixing - Was the paint well stirred and mixed without bubbles? * Is it the correct type of paint for the material being painted? * Was the brush or roller clean?
You can paint shelf liner but it may not look so good if it starts to lift.
Polyurethane is a very tough Plastic and is solid at room temperature so the shelf life, at room temperature, Liquid form, still a long time, for furthur answers and for further Elaboration consult The New MrSpock (Xbox Live Gamertag).
There are many cool and simple DIY projects. Make a new floor by painting a rug on the floor with craft paint and sealing with polyurethane. Make a dressing table with a shelf attached to the wall with brackets and add a mirror and skirting.
Although you can paint the shelf with paint pens, it would take longer to do than if you used a brush or spray. It would more than likely also cost you more.
heat
matter of taste do what you like
Officially, 6 months after opening. I have found finishes to be very expensive and shelf life is very important, I use a product called "Bloxygen", it contains an inert gas (Argon) that lays on top of your polyurethane not allowing oxygen in, thus extending the shelf life of your opened can of poly. In practice, polyurethanes will slowly polymerize in the can, forming a globby layer of cured poly, and slowly thickening the liquid poly underneath. I have not had any problems with chipping through the cured layer and using the remaining viscous product. Eventually (after several years in an opened can) it becomes difficult to even spread the thickened coating onto wood, contains unsightly bits of solid cured material, and I suspect it won't penetrate wood as well, but it does seem to dry and cure properly. That's all with an open can. Unopened, solvent-based coatings like polyurethane have a quite exceptional shelf life. I have used decades-old rusty sealed cans of polyurethane, and they appear indistinguishable from current production!
There are many options for mounting a decorative shelf to a wall. Among these are direct mounts (using self-contained shelves that come with mounting hardware) and the use of decorative wall brackets to support a shelf that is just a piece of wood, melamine, glass, etc. whichever method you use, it is wise to test the strength of the shelf for a few days using an object that's unbreakable and not of great value. This could save an heirloom from ruin if the shelf fails.
Shelf.
You can jump up and down rapidly in Charlie's Carrot Surplus Co. by talking to Charlie while standing on the shelf labeled "used paint."
The shelf in a hatch back is a partial shelf. A parcel is a package.
shelf