When you develop film, the chemical that's touching the film wears out after a while--the real term is "reaches exhaustion," but that just means it wore out. When you agitate the tank, the worn-out developer is exchanged for fresh. Over-agitation can cause development streaking because the solution travels through the sprocket holes too much. Too little agitation can result in lowered contrast and un-even development (mottling).
Comment on overagitation
You "overagitate" by moving the tank too rapidly. You can overagitate if you turn the tank over once every five minutes, if you flip it really, really hard when you do. There are rotary processor systems such as Jobo that continuously agitate the tank, but it's a very slow, gentle agitation so you don't get streaks around your sprocket holes. I also remember being into H&W Control film, which was a film-developer system that promised nearly grainless, super long tonal scale images. It actually did it too, if you didn't mind that the film was ISO 25. You had to continuously agitate it. Wouldn't work any other way, or so the instruction sheet said. I figured if they went to the good time and trouble to tell you to do it they had a reason, so I always did it and it worked like the book said it would.
In my experience, liquids are always needed in the processing of films. If you consider printing part of the processing, then the negatives (the film after developing) are typically air dried before printing. There would be no reason to want to keep negatives permanently wet. Trying to manually rush the drying of negatives would inevitably lead to occasional damage.
Hot water (engine coolant) expands and pushes its way back into the coolant reservoir.
Following are the advantages of Live Tank over dead Tank : a) The Primary conductor is short than (in live tank CT) than the Dead tank CT which gives better Rigidity and gives high short circuit current withstanding capability and reliability. b) Primary winding is uniformly distributed around Core, Hence CT is truly low reactance type, which has inherent better transient performance. c) Due to shorter length and the tank being live the major insulation is not over the high current carrying primary, which is the main source of heat (as in the case of Dead tank type design.) the insulation does not get heated up while dissipating the heat generated. This facilitates much superior thermal stability of insulation and longer life.
At the very least, a camera and the time and place to use it. Otherwise, if you're working with film, some items might include:FilmFilm cameraTripodDifferent lensesFilm developing tank (plus necessary chemicals for developing the film)Access to a darkroom with a projector, filters, and necessary chemicalsPhoto paper (Like Ilford)Negative sleevesIf you're working with a digital camera, some items might include:Digital cameraTripodPhoto editing softwareOther than this, you may also want to use lighting equipment and backdrop sheets, amongst things like props and sets (for shoots that need them).
AnswerFilm is developed in a light tight bag or room and developed with three chemicals and water: developer, water, fix, hypo, and wash, with times dependent on the type of film. When your negatives are dry you can take a section of them and slide them into the film carrier and place it in the enlarger. I prefer to turn on the light all the way to the furthest brightness and then use the handles or switches on the side to adjust the focus. There is also a wheel on the side of the enlarger to adjust the size. After determining the focus, turn down the light two stops and take a small piece of photo paper and test the times with intervals of 3 seconds. Take the piece of paper and leave it in the developer with agitation for one minute and decide which exposure time looks best. Proceed with a larger sheet of paper and finish the developing with water, fix, and a water bath, air dry or blow dry to finish. And you have a photo!howstuffworks.com also has an article about instant cameras and how instant photos like Polaroid photos are developed.Further to the above which only covers monochrome colour photography can involve the use of seven different chemicals. Everything has to be processed in complete darkness. The film is processed as per the mono system except you work at higher temperatures using colour chemistry. You can use the same processing tank as in black and white. However you need to keep the tank in hot water at the temperature required. Printing has to be done in complete darkness which is why most of us either have an expensive processor or leave it to a colour lab. You can use a dish system but it is not very consistent. To be honest mono can be fun but colour can be a nightmare so I suggest you take your colour to a lab.Developing ColorThere are four types of color processes: color print film, color slide film, prints from negatives and prints from slides. The critical thing in developing color is temperature--it runs at 38 degrees C, plus or minus 1/4 degree C. That is a REAL tight standard, but it's attainable. Some people use styrofoam coolers and aquarium heaters, others fill the bathtub with 102-degree water and the real rich people used to buy special desktop color processing machines. These were made in Germany by a company called Jobo and they've been discontinued since 2006, but you can occasionally find used ones.Color print is REAL easy--3 minutes 15 seconds in developer, wash the film, 6 minutes 30 seconds in bleach (which converts metallic silver into fixer-soluble silver halide--color images are made from dyes, there's no silver in the final image), wash the film, 6 minutes 30 seconds in fixer, wash for 10 minutes, soak in stabilizer for a minute, squeegee and dry. In the modern era the best way to print this stuff is to take it to Walmart and run it through their self-service printing kiosk.Color slides require either three or seven baths, and the three-bath systems are awful. The three-bath system is first developer, color developer and bleach/fix. All film produces negatives no matter what kind it is. If you want a positive image, you develop the negative in a bath that won't create any dye (it's a black and white developer; I once tried developing black and white film in this and it turns out to work pretty well, but if you're looking for lots of contrast this is the stuff to use.) then chemically fog the remaining silver, develop it in a dye-generating developer, then bleach, fix and stabilizer. The seven-bath system, which is sometimes called a "six-bath" system, is first developer, reversal bath, color developer, prebleach (used to be called "conditioner"), bleach, fix and stabilizer. The three-bath process puts the reversal agent in the color developer, combines bleach and fix (which MOST companies do these days--Kodak's official process was designed decades ago when the bleach wasn't the same product it is now) and eliminates the prebleach. Putting the reversal agent in the color developer makes the life of the CD real short, so if you get one of these kits use it and dump it the same day.As for printing, if you're not making 20x24s or something you're far better off to go to a PhotoMaker kiosk and do it there.Photo DevelopmentGo to HowStuffWorks.com and search for 'film' or 'photography'. One of the first few results that turns up will be an article called "How Photographic Film Works."This article discusses developing both color and black & white film.
Oxygen is pretty important...some film developing machines agitate their chemistry by firing bursts of nitrogen into the developer tank.
Your local photofinishing retail outlet might offer this service, but they will usually only do this at the time of development. If you need or want to do this, you will need a film/transparency scanner (there are 2 types: flat-bed and dedicated) to scan your negatives and save as image files. A regular scanner will not work because the scan light needs to be above (in the lid) to scan film. Scanners that do only film are configured differently, so you may need to research scanner models and image file types to help you decide if it is worth the expense and effort to do this yourself. Your most common file type choice would be either jpeg, bitmap or tiff.
In my experience, liquids are always needed in the processing of films. If you consider printing part of the processing, then the negatives (the film after developing) are typically air dried before printing. There would be no reason to want to keep negatives permanently wet. Trying to manually rush the drying of negatives would inevitably lead to occasional damage.
Fill the spray tank with half the required amount of water. Add the correct amount of Relegate Herbicide to the tank. Agitate the mixture to ensure even distribution. Fill the tank with the remaining water and continue to agitate while spraying. Remember to follow all label instructions and safety precautions when mixing and applying herbicides.
Tank Brigade - film - was created in 1955.
The duration of Think Tank - film - is 1.6 hours.
The duration of Fish Tank - film - is 2.07 hours.
Think Tank - film - was created on 2006-06-18.
Fish Tank - film - was created on 2009-05-01.
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I would assume the sludge is petroleum based,maybe a build-up of pre-mix oil residue (if a 2 stroke) if it is possibly gummed fuel from years of storage,there is a solution! All you need to do is flush the tank with a solvent,( I prefer Gum Cutter or Carb Cleaner) You can spray 2 cans at once into a small coffee can, then pour into the affected gas tank and agitate - remember to relieve pressure from tank , caused by evaporation of the cleaner. If the build-up is very thick,uou may havt to let it sit and soak,then agitate. You should be able to look into the tank with a flashlight to monitor progress, repeat applications may be necessary - hope this solves the problem for you.
The Tank Girl comics came out in 1988(Deadline comics) and the eponymous film came out in 1995 .