You can paint over latex paint with either an oil or water based enamel paint as long as the surface is dull, clean and rust free. Any bare metal will need to be primed with a primer, either oil based or 100% acrylic Direct-to-metal, prior to top-coating.
A primers is basically used to seal a surface and give the top coat "tooth". A primer should be chosen for the surface it is going on, oil based primers adhere better to surfaces like bare wood, slick finishes, and old oil based paint. Once the primer has dried any kind or paint may be applied as a top coat.
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
You can, but there is no point, and a waste of the Minwax. -Minwax is for applying to bare wood.
Yes, as long as you test for adhesion first and prime all bare areas.
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Factory finish would have been an enamel paint. Even if it has been repainted, it is most likely enamel also. If the paint is old you can probably paint it with anything without it raising the old finish. If in doubt, you can spray a sealer on first and then the paint.
You can paint over latex paint with either an oil or water based enamel paint as long as the surface is dull, clean and rust free. Any bare metal will need to be primed with a primer, either oil based or 100% acrylic Direct-to-metal, prior to top-coating.
A primers is basically used to seal a surface and give the top coat "tooth". A primer should be chosen for the surface it is going on, oil based primers adhere better to surfaces like bare wood, slick finishes, and old oil based paint. Once the primer has dried any kind or paint may be applied as a top coat.
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
if you are trying to remove paint from the outer body of the car and you are looking to paint it. then start by sanding the outer body down to the bare metal then use your primary then first coat then second coat of paint
You can, but there is no point, and a waste of the Minwax. -Minwax is for applying to bare wood.
BEAR means to keep or to carry. BARE means naked, uncover. You would bear in mind, you would bear arms, you would bare your shoulders to the sun, and wood with no paint or varnish is bare wood. Not to be confused with where Pooh lives- in the Bear woods. :}
Yes, as long as you test for adhesion first and prime all bare areas.
The main body would be black. The rest is left bare.
prime the bare wooden surface of the table and then coat it with a layer of white paint.
power wash, dry, prime any bare wood and paint