The shim between the inner bearing and the pinion is critical and if it's lost you need special tools to set the pinion depth. replace the bearings and seal with an new crush sleeve thighten the pinion nut until the sleeve crushes and you can't move the pinion up and down. Then very slowly tighten the pinion nut checking the rotational torque. You will need an inch pound torque wrench, when the preload is correct it should take between 20-25 inch pounds of torque to rotate the pinion. If you get it too tight you need to replace the crush sleeve and start over. Proper bearing preload and gear mesh are critical.
spark plug torque for a Toyota 2.4 is 95 inch/lbs
The only torque you should be concerned with is the torque it takes to rotate the pinion gear alone, 8-14 inch pounds for old bearings, 16-29 in/lbs. for new bearings. The torque it takes to crush the crush collar (tightening the pinion nut) will be above 140 foot lbs. and this will set your tension on the pinion bearings. If you put a new crush collar in you are going to have to remove axles and carrier to get the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.
Not bad. Some specialty tools needed like a foot lb torque wrench, an inch lb torque wrench and a dial indicator. A shop manual for that vehicle would also be helpful.
There are a couple different methods to correctly torque the nut on the pinion. One way that I have used in the past with excellent results,is to tighten the pinion nut real good and snug just as you feel the crush sleeve begin its resistance,and then you actually place an "inch pound" torque wrench(Dial or Bar style tends to be a little quicker and more exacting than a click style) with correct socket on pinion nut and rotate the pinion by way of the smaller torque wrench (ring gear and carrier removed).If the inch-pound torque wrench doesn't click before the pinion rotates(inch-pound wrench set approx @12-15),then snug the pinoin nut up with your 1/2 drive impact more.Tighten nut in SMALL increments.Dont overshoot it,other wise you run the risk of wasting the one time use crush sleeve and burning up the pinion bearings.If say the wrench clicks @10,11,12ish before the pinion rotates,but if set @ 15 or so,and the pinion rotates before the torque wrench clicks, you are in the right area.What you are doing is measuring the amount of "rotational drag" on the pinion with the inlb torque wrench.Another way is if the crush sleeve is replaced with a solid spacer,the nut can be torqued down with a regular pop wrench to about 60-75 ft/lbs.
65 inch/lbs. Note please NOT foot lbs, INCH LBS
It is set correclty when the crush sleave inside is set, during a gear setup. then it is checked with a Inch pound meter and will show while rotating roughly 5 inch # rotational drag.
You really need to take a reading before youremove the nut and tighten the nut 3-5 pounds inch more than it was when you took it apart. If you didn't you need to torque it to 25 pounds-inch with a new nut and sleeve. You can probably rent an inch pound torque wrench from the parts store. Turn it several turns after tightening it and before reading the torque.
Yes, there are inch/pound torque wrenches.
The nut is generally torqued to 260/300 ft lbs, or 25 inch/lbs for new bearings and crush sleeve installed, or around 12/15 inch/lbs for old stuff.
A 4 inch drill pipe torque is used for fishing in small casing.
This is from the 1987 Ford Econoline Do-it yourself manual FBS-12090-87. Rear Differential with a removable rear cover is 8.8 inch and a non-removable cover is 9 inch.